Twenty years ago, the idyllic beaches of Trunk Bay in St. John, Virgin Islands, provided the perfect backdrop for our wedding. This small Caribbean island, our home for the first few years of our marriage, holds a special place in our hearts. This summer, we returned to St. John for a month-long anniversary trip, bringing our three children back to our happy place, our home away from home, seeking to reconnect and embrace a slower, simpler pace of life amidst the salt air.
Trunk Bay St John Virgin Islands Top Beaches
Trunk Bay, often lauded as one of the world’s top 10 beaches, offers an unforgettable Caribbean experience. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Approximately two-thirds of St. John is protected as Virgin Islands National Park, ensuring the preservation of its stunning natural beauty. Unlike many other Caribbean islands, St. John remains largely undeveloped, boasting lush green hills, pristine white-sand beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters. This unspoiled charm is evident in the absence of all-inclusive resorts, highways, and even traffic lights on this 19-square-mile island, home to around 4,000 residents. Driving here is a unique experience itself, with narrow, winding roads demanding left-hand driving, frequent honking around blind corners, and patient stops for the island’s diverse wildlife – donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas.
St John Virgin Islands Donkeys Honeymoon Beach
Donkeys freely roam and relax on the beautiful Honeymoon Beach in St. John, adding to the island’s unique charm. Photo by Mauri Elbel
St. John, the smallest and most naturally preserved of the U.S. Virgin Islands, offers an escape from the everyday stresses of life back home. Days begin with vibrant sunrises and the sound of roosters, and end with breathtaking sunsets and gentle trade winds. In between, you’ll find yourself immersed in the natural saltwater pools of the Caribbean Sea.
Reaching St. John from Austin is an adventure in itself. With no airport on St. John and no direct flights from Austin to neighboring St. Thomas, the journey typically involves a 16-hour travel day. This includes two or three flights, an hour-long taxi van ride from St. Thomas airport to the Red Hook ferry dock, a 20-minute ferry ride to Cruz Bay on St. John, and finally, a Jeep ride to your island accommodation. However, upon arrival in this island paradise, the arduous journey becomes instantly insignificant. Our children, aged 9, 13, and 16, are seasoned St. John travelers, having visited more times than their years, and they now take the travel in stride, knowing the reward is well worth the effort.
My own love affair with St. John began during a college family trip. Shortly after graduating from The University of Texas, I traded my office job for a work-exchange program in the Caribbean. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-tourism resort for just four hours a day earned me free lodging and unlimited access to the island’s stunning beaches. Six weeks flew by, and I wasn’t ready to leave. I found a job as the writer and copy editor at the island’s weekly newspaper in Cruz Bay. Those next few years were filled with reporting on island life and spending weekends exploring beaches and boats.
Over two decades, my affection for St. John has only deepened, especially now that it’s a cherished escape for our own family. If you’re considering a trip to St. John, here’s your insider’s guide to the best beaches, hiking trails, activities, and places to stay on this Caribbean gem.
Trunk Bay St John Virgin Islands White Sand Beach
Trunk Bay’s iconic white sand and incredibly clear turquoise waters make it a must-visit beach in St. John, often considered nature’s perfect swimming pool. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Beaches: Discover a Bay for Every Day in St. John
Our family rule for St. John is simple: every day is beach day. St. John boasts an incredible variety of bays, more than you could explore in a single trip. I always recommend starting with the pristine beaches along the island’s North Shore.
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Trunk Bay, famous for its crescent shape of soft white sand and crystal-clear aquamarine water, consistently ranks among the world’s best beaches. It’s undoubtedly the most popular and photographed beach on St. John. While Trunk Bay can get busier by mid-morning, arriving early or visiting in the late afternoon or evening offers a more secluded experience. During the low season, from late August to mid-November, you might even find yourself completely alone on this stunning stretch of sand, regardless of the time of day.
Sea Turtles Maho Bay St John Virgin Islands
Maho Bay in St. John is renowned for its calm waters and frequent sea turtle sightings, offering incredible wildlife encounters. Remember to observe these creatures respectfully and from a distance. Photo by Finn Albrecht
Maho Bay, known for its tranquil, shallow waters, is perfect for families with young children. It’s also the prime location for spotting sea turtles. Lush seagrass beds just offshore provide a rich habitat for green sea turtles. Swimming in the calm bay, you’re likely to encounter dozens of these gentle creatures. Remember to maintain a respectful distance and never touch any marine life.
For a quieter beach experience, head a short distance to the serene Francis Bay. This peaceful stretch of golden sand is the last beach on St. John’s North Shore. Its clear, glass-like water is ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Here, we often see sea turtles, schools of juvenile fish, and stingrays. We’ve even been lucky enough to spot octopus, starfish, and even a baby black tip reef shark and squid just off the shore.
Gibney Beach St John Virgin Islands Secluded Beach
The secluded Gibney Beach in St. John, also known as Oppenheimer Beach, offers a tranquil escape with limited crowds due to its restricted parking. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Gorgeous Gibney Beach, also known as Oppenheimer Beach, is a true hidden gem of St. John and our children’s absolute favorite. This secluded, sugar-sand beach, framed by lush sea grape trees and vibrant turquoise waters, is like stepping into a postcard. Parking is extremely limited at Gibney and Oppenheimer, ensuring that those who are fortunate enough to find a spot will share this paradise with only a few others.
Heart-Pumping Hikes with Complimentary Ocean Cool-Downs in St. John
Hiking the extensive network of trails within Virgin Islands National Park, with over 20 trails to choose from, is a fantastic way to exercise while immersing yourself in the island’s rich history and breathtaking scenery. The best part? Many of my favorite trails reward your efforts with a refreshing cool-down at a nearby beach.
For a challenging hike, the 6-mile roundtrip Reef Bay Trail takes you through some of the island’s oldest and tallest trees. Take the spur trail to discover ancient petroglyphs carved between 900-1500 AD by the pre-Columbian Taino people and their ancestors. Continue on to explore the ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Mill, which produced brown sugar, rum, and molasses until 1916. Afterwards, reward yourself with a swim in the waves of secluded Reef Bay on St. John’s south shore before the demanding uphill hike back.
Views of Maho Bay and Francis Bay St John Hiking
Panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays are a highlight from the America Hill trail in St. John, offering stunning vistas after a rewarding hike. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Explore the historic Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation ruins before embarking on the short but steep hike to the 19th-century America Hill Great House Ruins. The uphill trail winds through a shaded forest of mango, genip, and guava berry trees. At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Maho and Francis Bays below. Cool off afterwards at the breezy Cinnamon Bay, St. John’s longest beach.
Hike to Honeymoon Beach via the Lind Point Trail. Starting from the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay, this less than 2-mile round trip hike is manageable even for young children. Stunning Honeymoon and its neighboring white-sand beach, Salomon, are accessible only by foot or boat, making them more secluded than the North Shore beaches, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive.
Honeymoon Beach St John Virgin Islands Hiking Trail
Honeymoon Beach, pictured, and Salomon Beach, both accessible via the Lind Point Trail in St. John, offer secluded beach experiences. Photo by Mauri Elbel
For a more rustic island experience, venture to the eastern side of St. John and hike to the summit of Ram Head, the southernmost point on the island. Begin at serene Salt Pond Bay and follow the mile-long trail along a rocky beach, with steep climbs and dramatic cliffs, until you reach the 360-degree panoramic ocean views at the top. Afterward, swim in the cool, clear waters of Salt Pond Bay, or explore windswept Drunk Bay, where you can create artistic sculptures from beach rocks and driftwood.
Calichi at Picture Point St John Eco Friendly Luxury Stay
For a luxurious and eco-conscious accommodation option in St. John, consider Calichi at Picture Point, offering breathtaking views and sustainable practices. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Split Your Stay to Experience Different Sides of St. John
St. John’s unspoiled beauty sets it apart from many Caribbean destinations that are overdeveloped. Accommodation options on St. John range from luxurious boutique hotels and charming inns to spacious vacation villas and cozy Caribbean cottages. We prefer to divide our stays between the two main areas of the island: Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.
Out of the Blue Villa St John Stunning Views
The breathtaking view from Out of the Blue villa in St. John showcases the island’s stunning coastal scenery and tranquil atmosphere. Photo by Mauri Elbel
This trip marked our third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury private villa retreat perched 1,200 feet above sea level on Bordeaux Mountain, overlooking Coral Bay. From the stunning Tower Villa at the property’s peak, you can watch sailboats gently sway in the sunlit harbor and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding islands – St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, and Vieques to the west, Tortola and Jost Van Dyke to the north, and St. Croix to the south. For the other portion of our trip, just 10 minutes past Cruz Bay on the opposite side of the island, we booked the expansive Out of the Blue vacation villa, which overlooks the sparkling waters of Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point on the island’s South Shore.
Island Roots Boat Charters St John BVI Day Trip
Enhance your St. John vacation with an unforgettable day trip to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) with Island Roots Boat Charters. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Boating Adventures to the British Virgin Islands from St. John
One of the many advantages of vacationing in St. John is its proximity to the British Virgin Islands (BVI), just a short boat trip away. If your itinerary and budget allow, exploring this nautical paradise should be high on your St. John bucket list. Private charters between the U.S. Virgin Islands and the BVI have resumed post-Covid, though at a higher cost.
We booked a full-day extended BVI private charter with Island Roots Charters, a well-established, locally owned company that customizes itineraries to the best destinations in the Virgin Islands. By 8 a.m., Captain Ryan was ready at the National Park Dock in Cruz Bay to whisk us away in a luxurious 32-foot World Cat power catamaran. After clearing customs at Tortola’s West End, our first stop was Sandy Spit, a tiny, uninhabited islet with unbelievably blue waters that looks like it belongs in a pirate movie. We then cruised along Tortola’s North Shore, anchoring at Rogues Bay, a secluded, deserted beach where our kids enjoyed wave jumping and rock climbing.
Sandy Spit BVI Uninhabited Island Boat Trip from St John
Sandy Spit, a picturesque uninhabited island in the BVI, is easily accessible by boat from St. John and offers stunning turquoise waters and pristine sands. Photo by Mauri Elbel
Lunchtime brought us to our main destination and one of my favorite places in the Caribbean: The Baths at Virgin Gorda. Here, massive granite boulders rise from the teal sea, creating natural grottos and secluded saltwater pools perfect for exploration. After lunch and rum punches at Devil’s Bay, we snorkeled at The Indians, a small archipelago known for its exceptional underwater marine life. We concluded our day with Painkillers – a classic Caribbean cocktail of dark rum, pineapple and orange juices, cream of coconut, and fresh nutmeg – as the sun set over Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay, a dazzling white beach lined with palm trees, thatched-roof beach bars, and Gatorade-blue water. It was a truly magical day at sea and the highlight of our month-long return to our beloved St. John, Virgin Islands.
