Times Square, once notorious for its gritty atmosphere, has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past few decades. Thanks to visionary leadership and a booming economy, this iconic New York City hub is now a vibrant destination, attracting tourists from around the globe. However, amidst the dazzling lights and bustling crowds, finding authentic, top-tier New York-style pizza can be surprisingly challenging. Beyond the familiar chain restaurants that offer predictable fare and the somewhat underwhelming Ray’s Pizza, a truly exceptional slice has remained elusive – until perhaps now.
John
Recently, a business meeting in Midtown Manhattan led me to an intriguing discovery: John’s Pizzeria of Times Square. My associate, visiting from the West Coast, suggested it as the only New York pizza place he knew. Established in 1997, John’s Pizzeria capitalized on the Times Square revitalization, building their restaurant within the structure of a renovated old church. It’s important to note that they explicitly state no affiliation with the renowned John’s of Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village. Leveraging its prime location, John’s Pizza Times Square has expanded its brand to include locations in Jersey City and the Bronx.
Venturing out for lunch on a beautiful midday, we arrived at John’s Pizzeria on 44th Street, conveniently located next door to Sardis, a Theater District landmark. Despite the late lunch hour, we were seated immediately. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the restaurant. A substantial bar area greets you upon entry, leading into three distinct dining spaces, including a balcony section that offers a view of their impressive coal-fired pizza oven. Later, I learned of their claim to be the largest pizza restaurant in the United States, which, considering the space, seemed plausible. However, seasoned pizza enthusiasts know that size and aesthetics are secondary to taste. A slight apprehension crept in – could this be just another overpriced tourist trap with subpar food?
John
Perusing the menu, a clear message on our waitress’s T-shirt caught my attention: “No Slices.” This policy necessitated ordering a whole pie. With differing preferences, we opted for a small plain cheese pizza (a $14.25 “Traditional” six-slice pie) for me, while my companion chose a more elaborate topping combination. Similar to John’s of Bleecker Street, and in contrast to many Brooklyn pizzerias, John’s Pizza Times Square utilizes coal-fired ovens not only for Margherita pizzas but also for their traditional pizzas.
John
Our pizzas arrived promptly. Visually, they presented an interesting appearance: a blackened, coal-fired crust topped with an unconventional swirl of cheese and tomato sauce. I appreciated the thin, crispy look and the charred edges of the crust, although it was immediately apparent that my cheese pizza was generously, perhaps overly, cheesed. Nevertheless, upon taking the first bite, any initial skepticism dissipated. The coal-fired flavor was undeniably delicious and satisfying. This was certainly not the stereotypical tourist-trap pizza experience I had feared.
John
However, the heavy hand with the cheese did present some drawbacks. Due to its thickness, the cheese had congealed in certain areas where it hadn’t fully melted. Conversely, at the edges, the sheer volume of cheese became too heavy for the crust, resulting in a somewhat runny texture. Simply put, a more balanced cheese application would have improved the overall cooking and texture. Another minor disappointment was the pizza’s temperature; it wasn’t served piping hot and cooled down relatively quickly, making the last slice less enjoyable.
John
Overall, John’s Pizza Times Square is a worthwhile establishment that offers a tasty pizza crafted with quality ingredients. The opportunity to savor pizza cooked over a coal fire is always a special treat. Similar to John’s of Bleecker Street, I appreciate their commitment to preparing traditional pizza using coal ovens. Perhaps on my next visit, John’s of Times Square will refine their cheese usage and ensure a hotter serving temperature, which would undoubtedly elevate the pizza experience to an even higher level.
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing
John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY 10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com
