Twenty years ago, the pristine shores of Trunk Bay in St. John, Virgin Islands, became the backdrop for a momentous occasion – my wedding. This small Caribbean island, our home for the initial blissful years of marriage, holds a special place in our hearts. This summer marked our anniversary, and we chose to celebrate with a month-long sojourn back to our cherished sanctuary. St. John is more than just a destination; it’s our happy place, a home away from home, and a haven we frequently revisit with our three children to reconnect, rejuvenate, and embrace a slower, more fulfilling rhythm of life.
Trunk Bay's renowned beauty captured from a high angle, showcasing its powdery white sand and turquoise waters.
St. John’s allure is undeniable. Approximately two-thirds of the island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park, ensuring a landscape of verdant hills, untouched white-sand beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters. This commitment to preservation sets St. John apart from many Caribbean counterparts, offering a rare unspoiled beauty. The island, a mere 19 square miles and home to around 4,000 residents, intentionally eschews over-development. You won’t encounter sprawling all-inclusive resorts, bustling highways, or even a single traffic light. Life here operates at a different pace, where driving on the left side of winding roads, a friendly honk before blind corners, and yielding to the island’s diverse inhabitants – donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas – are part of the daily rhythm.
Wild donkeys peacefully resting on the white sands of Honeymoon Beach in St. John.
St. John, the smallest and arguably most idyllic of the U.S. Virgin Islands, offers a welcome escape from the pressures of everyday life. Days unfold with breathtaking sunrises and the cheerful crowing of roosters, transitioning into evenings painted with vibrant sunsets and gentle trade winds. The heart of each day is often spent immersed in the island’s natural saltwater pools, a true communion with nature.
Reaching St. John from Austin is an adventure in itself. The absence of an airport on St. John necessitates a journey involving multiple flights, a taxi van ride, a ferry, and finally, a Jeep transfer to our destination. Despite the 16-hour travel day, the moment we arrive in this island paradise, the travel fatigue melts away. Our children, seasoned St. John travelers despite their young ages (9, 13, and 16), now navigate the journey with seasoned ease, their anticipation fueled by the promise of the island’s rewards.
My personal love affair with St. John began during a college trip. Shortly after graduating from The University of Texas, I traded the confines of an office cubicle for a work-exchange program in the Caribbean. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-resort was my ticket to paradise, allowing me to spend my free time exploring the island’s stunning beaches. This initial six-week stint wasn’t enough; I extended my stay, landing a job as a writer for the island’s local newspaper, immersing myself in island life for several more blissful years.
Over two decades, my affection for St. John has only deepened, transforming from a personal haven into a cherished family escape. For those contemplating a visit to St. John, consider this your insider’s guide to the island’s best beaches, hiking trails, activities, and accommodations.
Panoramic view of Trunk Bay, highlighting its white sand crescent and remarkably clear turquoise water.
Beaches of St. John: Discover Your Perfect Bay
Our family motto on St. John is simple: every day is beach day. With a wealth of stunning bays exceeding the days in a typical vacation, prioritizing the North Shore beaches is highly recommended.
Explore Further: Plan Your Perfect Week in St. John
Trunk Bay, a globally recognized beach, is celebrated for its soft, white sand and incredibly clear turquoise waters. It’s St. John’s most famous and frequently photographed beach, attracting visitors throughout the day. For a more secluded experience, aim for early mornings or late afternoons. During the off-season (late August to mid-November), you might even find yourself enjoying complete solitude, regardless of the time of day.
A sea turtle gracefully swimming in the clear, shallow waters of Maho Bay, St. John.
Maho Bay, with its gentle, shallow waters, is an ideal choice for families with young children. It’s also renowned for sea turtle sightings, thanks to the lush seagrass beds just offshore. Swimming in Maho Bay often means encountering these gentle creatures, but remember to observe them respectfully and maintain a safe distance.
For tranquility away from the crowds, Francis Bay, located further along the North Shore, offers serenity. This golden sand beach boasts calm, crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Wildlife encounters are common here, from sea turtles and juvenile fish to stingrays, and occasionally octopus, starfish, or even small reef sharks.
The secluded beauty of Gibney/Oppenheimer Beach, rarely crowded due to limited parking.
Gibney Beach, also known as Oppenheimer Beach, is a hidden gem and a family favorite. Its secluded, sugar-sand shore, framed by lush sea grape trees and vibrant turquoise waters, is picture-perfect. Parking is extremely limited, which contributes to its peaceful atmosphere. If you manage to find a spot, you’re in for a truly special beach experience.
Hiking in St. John: Trails with Rewarding Views and Refreshing Dips
Exploring St. John’s extensive network of trails within the Virgin Islands National Park is a fantastic way to combine exercise with historical and scenic exploration. Many trails culminate at stunning beaches, offering a refreshing cool-down after a rewarding hike.
The Reef Bay Trail, a 6-mile round trip, is a challenging yet enriching hike through diverse island ecosystems. A detour leads to ancient petroglyphs carved by the Taino people, dating back centuries. The trail also passes the ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Mill, a historical reminder of the island’s past. The hike concludes at the secluded Reef Bay, perfect for a swim before the uphill return journey.
Scenic vista overlooking Maho and Francis Bays from the elevated vantage point of America Hill.
The America Hill Trail offers a shorter, steeper hike past the Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation ruins to the America Hill Great House Ruins. The uphill climb meanders through a shaded forest of mango, genip, and guava berry trees, rewarding hikers with panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays. Cinnamon Bay, St. John’s longest beach, is an ideal spot for a post-hike swim.
For an accessible hike leading to beautiful beaches, the Lind Point Trail to Honeymoon Beach is excellent. Starting near the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay, this less than 2-mile round trip is suitable for families with children. Honeymoon and Salomon beaches, accessible only by foot or boat, are more secluded, especially in the early morning before boat tours arrive.
Honeymoon Beach, with its pristine white sand and calm waters, accessible via a scenic trail.
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Venture to the more remote eastern side of St. John and hike to Ram Head, the island’s southernmost point. Starting at Salt Pond Bay, the trail follows a scenic route along rocky beaches, up steep inclines, and across dramatic cliffs to reach breathtaking 360-degree ocean views. Afterward, cool off in the clear waters of Salt Pond Bay or explore the unique driftwood sculptures at nearby Drunk Bay.
Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury accommodation in St. John offering stunning panoramic views.
Accommodation in St. John: Boutique Luxury to Island Charm
St. John’s unspoiled charm differentiates it from other Caribbean destinations with heavy development. Accommodation options range from luxurious boutique hotels and intimate inns to spacious villas and cozy Caribbean cottages. We prefer splitting our stays between Cruz Bay and Coral Bay, experiencing both sides of the island.
The expansive view from Out of the Blue villa, showcasing the turquoise waters of Rendezvous Bay in St. John.
Our recent trip included our third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury villa retreat perched high above Coral Bay. From the Tower Villa, the views encompass sailboats in the harbor and panoramic vistas of neighboring islands – St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, Vieques, Tortola, Jost Van Dyke, and St. Croix. On the other side of the island, near Cruz Bay, we stayed at Out of the Blue, a spacious villa overlooking Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point.
Island Roots Boat Charters vessel, ready for a day of exploring the waters around St. John.
Boating to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) from St. John
A significant advantage of a St. John vacation is its proximity to the British Virgin Islands. If your itinerary and budget allow, a boat trip to the BVIs is highly recommended. Private charters between the USVI and BVI are available and offer an unforgettable island-hopping experience.
We opted for a full-day BVI charter with Island Roots Charters, a reputable local company offering customized itineraries. Captain Ryan met us early at the Cruz Bay dock, ready to guide us on a luxurious catamaran adventure. Our BVI exploration included swimming at Sandy Spit, a picturesque uninhabited islet, exploring the unique rock formations of The Baths at Virgin Gorda, snorkeling at The Indians, and enjoying sunset cocktails at White Bay on Jost Van Dyke. This BVI excursion was a highlight of our month-long St. John return, creating lasting memories.
Sandy Spit, a tiny, idyllic island surrounded by clear turquoise waters, a short boat ride from Jost Van Dyke.
St. John, Virgin Islands, offers an unparalleled Caribbean experience, blending natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and tranquil relaxation. Start planning your escape to this island paradise today and discover the magic of St. John for yourself.
