Twenty years ago, the pristine shores of Trunk Bay in St. Johns, USVI, witnessed a personal milestone – my wedding. This small Caribbean island wasn’t just a beautiful backdrop; it was our home for the initial, carefree years of our marriage. This summer marked our 20th anniversary, and how better to celebrate than with a month-long return to St. Johns, USVI? It’s more than just a vacation spot; it’s our happy place, a home away from home where we regularly escape with our three children. We come to St. Johns USVI to recharge, embrace a slower pace of life, and reconnect with the simple joys of sun, sand, and sea.
Trunk Bay, known for its powder-sugar sand and turquoise waters, is a world-renowned beach in St. John, USVI.
What makes St. Johns USVI truly exceptional is its unspoiled beauty. Approximately two-thirds of the island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park. This designation ensures that lush green hills, immaculate white beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters remain untouched, a stark contrast to many overdeveloped Caribbean islands. On this 19-square-mile gem, home to around 4,000 residents, you won’t find sprawling resorts, bustling highways, or even a single traffic light. Driving here is an experience in itself – navigating narrow, winding roads on the left side, a friendly honk before each hairpin turn, and frequent pauses for the island’s charming residents: donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas.
Donkeys relax on the white sand of Honeymoon Beach in St. John, USVI, showcasing the island's laid-back atmosphere and wildlife encounters.
St. Johns, USVI, the smallest and most pristine of the US Virgin Islands, offers a true escape from the everyday. Days here begin with vibrant sunrises and the sound of roosters, and close with breathtaking sunsets and gentle trade winds. In between, you’ll find us immersed in the natural saltwater pool that is the Caribbean Sea.
Reaching St. Johns USVI from Austin is an adventure in itself. With no airport on St. John and no direct flights from Austin to neighboring St. Thomas, the journey typically takes around 16 hours. This involves multiple flights, an hour-long taxi ride to the Red Hook ferry dock in St. Thomas, a brisk ferry ride to Cruz Bay in St. Johns, and a final Jeep ride to our island destination. Yet, the moment we arrive in this island paradise, the long travel day fades into insignificance. Our children, aged 9, 13, and 16, are seasoned St. Johns travelers, having visited more times than their years, and they now take the journey in stride, knowing the reward that awaits is well worth the effort to get to St. Johns USVI.
My own love affair with St. Johns USVI began on a college senior year family trip. Shortly after graduating from The University of Texas, I traded the fluorescent lights of my media job for the Caribbean sunshine. I participated in a work-exchange program at an eco-tourism resort, cleaning guest tents for a few hours daily in exchange for accommodation. The rest of the day was spent exploring the most stunning beaches I had ever seen. Six weeks flew by, and I wasn’t ready to leave. I found a job at the island’s local newspaper, spending years writing about island life and enjoying weekends on the beautiful beaches and out on the water.
Over two decades, my affection for St. Johns USVI has only deepened, especially now that it’s a cherished escape for our own family. If you’re considering a trip to St. Johns, USVI, this insider’s guide will lead you to the best beaches, hiking trails, activities, and accommodations this Caribbean gem has to offer.
Trunk Bay in St. John, USVI, boasts powdery white sand and crystal-clear water, making it a top-rated beach destination.
Beaches of St. Johns USVI: A Bay for Every Day
Our family motto on St. Johns USVI is simple: every day is beach day. With more breathtaking bays than days in a typical vacation, you’ll be spoiled for choice. I always recommend beginning with the pristine beaches along the North Shore of St. Johns USVI.
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Trunk Bay, famous for its crescent of soft white sand and incredibly clear aquamarine water, consistently ranks among the world’s top beaches and is undeniably the most popular beach in St. Johns USVI. While it can get busier by mid-morning, arriving early or visiting in the late afternoon offers a more tranquil experience. During the low season, from late August to mid-November, you might even find yourself completely alone on this stunning stretch of sand, regardless of the time of day.
Maho Bay in St. John, USVI, is known as a prime location for observing sea turtles in their natural seagrass habitat.
Maho Bay, with its calm, shallow waters, is perfect for families with young children. It’s also renowned as the best spot on St. Johns USVI for spotting sea turtles. Lush seagrass beds just offshore provide an ideal habitat for green sea turtles. Swimming in the tranquil bay, you’ll likely see many of these gentle creatures. Remember to keep a respectful distance and never touch any marine life.
For a quieter beach experience, venture a bit further down the road to the serene Francis Bay. This peaceful stretch of golden sand marks the last beach on the North Shore of St. Johns USVI. Its crystal-clear, glass-like water is ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Here, we often encounter sea turtles, schools of juvenile fish, and stingrays. We’ve even been lucky enough to spot octopus, starfish, and even a baby black tip reef shark just off the shore.
Gibney Beach, also known as Oppenheimer Beach in St. John, USVI, offers seclusion and beauty, often uncrowded due to limited parking.
Gibney Beach, also known as Oppenheimer Beach, is a true hidden gem of St. Johns USVI and a firm favorite with our kids. This secluded, sugar-sand beach is framed by lush green sea grape trees and boasts clear turquoise waters that seem to be lifted straight from a postcard. Parking is extremely limited at Gibney and Oppenheimer beaches, so if you manage to find a spot, you’ll be rewarded with an almost private beach paradise.
Hiking and Coastal Views in St. Johns USVI
Exploring the over 20 hiking trails that wind through the Virgin Islands National Park is a fantastic way to exercise while immersing yourself in the island’s history and natural beauty. A bonus? Many of my favorite trails culminate in a refreshing dip at a nearby beach.
For a challenging hike, the 6-mile roundtrip Reef Bay Trail is a must. It meanders through some of St. Johns USVI’s oldest and tallest trees. Take the spur trail to discover ancient petroglyphs carved between 900-1500 AD by the Taino people and their ancestors, predating Columbus’s arrival. Continue to the Reef Bay Sugar Mill ruins, which produced brown sugar, rum, and molasses until 1916. Afterward, cool off in the waves of secluded Reef Bay on St. Johns’ south shore before the demanding uphill hike back.
Panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays from America Hill in St. John, USVI, showcasing the island's stunning coastal scenery.
Wander past the historical ruins of the Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation before embarking on the short but steep hike to the 19th-century America Hill Great House Ruins. The uphill trail passes through a shaded forest of mango, genip, and guava berry trees. At the summit, your efforts are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays below. After your hike, relax and cool down at the breezy Cinnamon Bay, St. Johns’ longest beach.
Hike to Honeymoon Beach via the Lind Point Trail. Starting from the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay, it’s a less than 2-mile round trip, making it suitable even for younger children. The stunning Honeymoon Beach and its neighboring white-sand beach, Salomon, are accessible only by foot or boat, making them more secluded than other North Shore beaches, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive.
Honeymoon Beach, a secluded white-sand paradise in St. John, USVI, accessible by hiking the Lind Point Trail.
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For a more remote island experience, head to the eastern side of St. Johns USVI and hike to the summit of Ram Head, the southernmost point on the island. Begin at serene Salt Pond Bay and follow the mile-long narrow trail along a rocky beach, steep inclines, and dramatic cliffs until you reach the 360-degree ocean views from the top. Afterward, take a refreshing dip in the clear waters of Salt Pond Bay or explore windswept Drunk Bay, where you can create your own beach art from rocks and driftwood.
Calichi at Picture Point in St. John, USVI, offers luxurious, eco-friendly accommodations with breathtaking panoramic views.
Accommodation in St. Johns USVI: Boutique to Villas
St. Johns USVI boasts a natural splendor that distinguishes it from other Caribbean destinations marked by overdevelopment and towering hotels. Here, you can choose from luxury boutique hotels, cozy inns, spacious vacation villas, and charming Caribbean cottages. We prefer to divide our stays between the two main areas of the island: Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.
Out of the Blue villa in St. John, USVI, provides stunning views and luxurious accommodations, perfect for a Caribbean getaway.
This recent trip marked our third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury villa retreat perched 1,200 feet above sea level on Bordeaux Mountain, overlooking Coral Bay. From the stunning Tower Villa, the highest point on the property, you can watch sailboats gently sway in the harbor and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding islands, including St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, and Vieques to the west, Tortola and Jost Van Dyke to the north, and St. Croix to the south. On the other side of the island, just 10 minutes from Cruz Bay, we also stayed at the expansive Out of the Blue vacation villa, which overlooks the sparkling waters of Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point on the South Shore of St. Johns USVI.
Island Roots Boat Charters in St. John, USVI, offers unforgettable boating experiences to explore the Virgin Islands.
Boating Adventures to the British Virgin Islands from St. Johns USVI
A significant perk of vacationing in St. Johns USVI is its proximity to the British Virgin Islands (BVI), just a short boat trip away. If your itinerary and budget allow, exploring the BVI, a renowned sailing paradise, is a must-do on your St. Johns bucket list. (Private charters between the US Virgin Islands and the BVI have resumed post-Covid, although at a higher cost).
We opted for a full-day extended BVI private charter with Island Roots Charters, a well-established, local company offering customized itineraries to the best destinations in the Virgin Islands. By 8 a.m., Captain Ryan was ready at the National Park Dock in Cruz Bay, ready to whisk us away in a luxurious 32-foot World Cat power catamaran. After clearing customs at Tortola’s West End, our first stop was Sandy Spit, a tiny, uninhabited islet with unbelievably blue waters, straight out of a pirate movie scene. We continued along Tortola’s North Shore, anchoring at Rogues Bay, where our kids enjoyed wave jumping and rock climbing on the secluded, deserted beach.
Sandy Spit, a small uninhabited island near Jost Van Dyke in the BVI, offers pristine beaches and clear waters for visitors arriving from St. John, USVI.
Lunchtime brought us to our main destination and one of my favorite places in the Caribbean: The Baths at Virgin Gorda. Here, colossal granite boulders emerge from the turquoise sea, forming natural grottos and private saltwater pools perfect for exploration. After lunch and some rum punches at Devil’s Bay, we snorkeled at The Indians, a small archipelago of islets known for exceptional underwater marine life. We concluded our day sipping Painkillers – a classic Caribbean cocktail made with dark rum, pineapple and orange juices, cream of coconut, and fresh nutmeg – as the sun set over Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay, a dazzling white beach lined with palm trees and beach bars, with Gatorade-blue water. It was a truly dreamy day at sea and the highlight of our month-long return to our beloved St. Johns USVI.
