Twenty years ago, the pristine shores of Trunk Bay on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, witnessed a deeply personal milestone – my wedding. This small Caribbean gem, our home for the initial carefree years of our marriage, has since transformed into our cherished sanctuary. It’s the place we yearn to return to with our three children, seeking respite, rejuvenation, and a welcome deceleration from the frenetic pace of everyday life.
This past summer marked our anniversary, and we celebrated with an extended month-long sojourn back to St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands. This island isn’t just a vacation spot; it’s our happy place, our home away from home, a constant in our lives that we revisit to reconnect and embrace a simpler, saltier rhythm.
Trunk Bay's Acclaimed Beauty on St. John, Virgin Islands
St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, stands apart, with approximately two-thirds of its landmass designated as Virgin Islands National Park. This commitment to preservation has resulted in an unspoiled landscape of verdant hills, immaculate white beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters – a rarity in the often-developed Caribbean. Forget sprawling all-inclusive resorts or bustling highways; St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, a mere 19 square miles, is home to about 4,000 residents and not a single traffic light. Driving here is an experience in itself, with narrow, winding roads demanding left-side driving, friendly honks before blind corners, and frequent pauses for the island’s diverse inhabitants: donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas.
Donkeys Relaxing on Honeymoon Beach, St. John, Virgin Islands
As the smallest and most untouched of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, offers an unparalleled escape from daily pressures. Days begin with vibrant sunrises accompanied by the sound of roosters and conclude with breathtaking sunsets and gentle trade winds. In between, you’ll find us immersed in the natural saltwater haven that is St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands.
Reaching St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, from Austin is an adventure in itself. With no airport on the island and no direct flights from Austin to neighboring St. Thomas, the journey typically spans around 16 hours. This involves multiple flights, a shared taxi van from St. Thomas airport to Red Hook ferry dock, a brisk ferry ride to Cruz Bay on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, and a final Jeep ride to our island destination. Yet, upon arrival in this island paradise, the travel fatigue instantly dissipates. Our children, seasoned St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, travelers despite their young ages (9, 13, and 16), now navigate this journey with ease, their anticipation of the island’s rewards outweighing the travel’s demands.
My personal connection with St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, began during a college trip. Immediately captivated, I returned after graduation, trading my office job for a work-exchange program on the island. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-resort provided free lodging and ample time to explore the stunning beaches. This initial six-week stint wasn’t enough; I extended my stay, securing a position as a writer for the island’s local newspaper. The subsequent years were filled with documenting island life and enjoying weekends exploring beaches and the sea.
Over two decades, my affection for St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, has deepened. It’s transformed from a past home into a cherished family escape. If you’re considering a trip to St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, this guide offers insider tips on the best beaches, hikes, activities, and accommodations the island has to offer.
Trunk Bay's Famous White Sands and Turquoise Waters on St. John, Virgin Islands
Beaches of St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands: A Bay for Every Day
Our family rule on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, is simple: every day is beach day. With an abundance of stunning bays, you’ll find more beaches than days to explore them all. The North Shore beaches are an excellent starting point for any St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, beach adventure.
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Trunk Bay, renowned for its soft white sand and incredibly clear water, consistently ranks among the world’s top beaches. It’s undeniably St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands’ most popular and photographed beach. While it attracts visitors, arriving early or later in the day offers a more secluded experience. During the low season (late August to mid-November), you might even find yourself alone on its beautiful sands, regardless of the time.
Sea Turtle Spotting at Maho Bay, St. John, Virgin Islands
Maho Bay, with its calm, shallow waters, is perfect for families with young children. It’s also a prime location for spotting sea turtles. The seagrass beds just offshore provide a rich habitat for green sea turtles. You’ll likely see many of these gentle creatures while swimming, but remember to observe them respectfully from a distance and never touch them or any marine life.
For a quieter beach experience, Francis Bay, located just beyond Maho, offers tranquility. This serene stretch of golden sand is the last beach on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands’ North Shore. Its clear, glass-like water is ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Here, we frequently encounter sea turtles, juvenile fish, and stingrays, and have even spotted octopus, starfish, and small reef sharks near the shore.
Secluded Beauty of Gibney Beach, St. John, Virgin Islands
Gibney Beach, often referred to as Oppenheimer Beach due to its proximity to Oppenheimer’s estate, is a true hidden gem and our children’s favorite. This secluded beach features pristine white sand, lush sea grape trees, and stunning turquoise waters. Parking is extremely limited, enhancing its secluded charm. If you manage to find a spot, you’ll be rewarded with an almost private beach experience.
Hiking Trails with Beach Cool-Downs on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands
Exploring the extensive trail system within Virgin Islands National Park on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, offers both exercise and a glimpse into the island’s history. Many trails conveniently conclude at a beautiful beach, providing a refreshing cool-down after your hike.
For a challenging hike, the 6-mile roundtrip Reef Bay Trail leads through old-growth forests. A side trail leads to ancient petroglyphs carved by the Taino people between 900-1500 AD. Continue to the Reef Bay Sugar Mill ruins, which operated until 1916. After exploring the ruins, the waters of remote Reef Bay on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands’ south shore offer a well-deserved cool-off before the uphill return hike.
Views from America Hill over Maho and Francis Bays, St. John, Virgin Islands
The Cinnamon Bay Trail takes you past the ruins of the historic Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation and then ascends to the 19th-century America Hill Great House ruins. The steep climb passes through a shaded forest of mango, genip, and guava berry trees. At the summit, panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays await. Afterward, Cinnamon Bay, St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands’ longest beach, provides a perfect place to relax and cool down.
The Lind Point Trail to Honeymoon Beach is an accessible option, starting near the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay. This less than 2-mile roundtrip hike is suitable even for young children. Honeymoon Beach and nearby Salomon Beach are accessible only by foot or boat, making them more secluded, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive.
Honeymoon and Salomon Beaches Accessible via Lind Point Trail, St. John, Virgin Islands
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For a hike on the island’s more secluded East End, trek to the summit of Ram Head, the southernmost point on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands. Starting at Salt Pond Bay, the mile-long trail features rocky beach sections, steep inclines, and dramatic cliffs, culminating in 360-degree ocean views. Post-hike, Salt Pond Bay’s clear waters are inviting, or you can explore Drunk Bay and create art from beach rocks and driftwood.
Eco-Luxury Stay at Calichi at Picture Point, St. John, Virgin Islands
Accommodation Choices on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands: Split Your Stay
St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, distinguishes itself from other Caribbean destinations with its unspoiled beauty, free from over-development. Accommodation options range from luxury boutique hotels and intimate inns to spacious villas and charming Caribbean cottages. We prefer to divide our time between Cruz Bay and Coral Bay, experiencing both sides of the island.
Stunning View from Out of the Blue Villa, St. John, Virgin Islands
On our recent trip, we returned for a third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury villa retreat perched high above Coral Bay. The Tower Villa offers panoramic views of Coral Bay, neighboring islands like St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, Vieques, Tortola, Jost Van Dyke, and St. Croix. On the other side of the island, near Cruz Bay, we stayed at Out of the Blue, a spacious villa overlooking Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands’ South Shore.
Boating Adventures with Island Roots Boat Charters, St. John, Virgin Islands
Boating to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) from St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands
A significant advantage of vacationing on St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, is its proximity to the British Virgin Islands. A boat trip offers access to this renowned sailing destination. Island hopping to the BVIs should be a priority if your schedule and budget allow. (Note that private charters between the USVI and BVI have become more expensive since Covid).
We opted for a full-day BVI charter with Island Roots Charters, a local company known for customized itineraries throughout the Virgin Islands. Captain Ryan met us in Cruz Bay, ready to take us out on a luxurious power catamaran. After clearing customs on Tortola, our first stop was Sandy Spit, a tiny, picture-perfect uninhabited islet. We then explored Tortola’s North Shore, stopping at Rogues Bay.
Sandy Spit, a Jewel near Jost Van Dyke, BVI, accessible from St. John's Island, Virgin Islands
Lunchtime brought us to The Baths at Virgin Gorda, a Caribbean highlight with massive granite boulders creating natural pools and grottoes. After lunch and refreshments at Devil’s Bay, we snorkeled at The Indians, islets teeming with marine life. The day concluded with Painkiller cocktails at White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, a stunning white beach with iconic beach bars and turquoise waters, marking a perfect end to our St. John’s Island, Virgin Islands, return.
