Twenty years ago, the enchanting shores of Trunk Bay on St. John Island, Caribbean, witnessed a personal milestone – my wedding. This tiny island became our home for the initial carefree years of marriage. This summer marked two decades, and to celebrate, we returned for a month-long sojourn to St. John, our cherished happy place. With our three children in tow, we sought to recharge, reconnect, and embrace life at a gentler, saltier rhythm. St. John remains our home away from home, a frequent escape for our family.
Trunk Bay has been named one of the top 10 beaches in the world
St. John distinguishes itself within the Caribbean archipelago with its unspoiled beauty. Approximately two-thirds of the island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park. This designation preserves lush green hills, pristine white beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters, a stark contrast to the developed landscapes of many neighboring islands. On this 19-square-mile haven, home to around 4,000 residents, you won’t encounter all-inclusive resorts, bustling highways, or even a single traffic light. Driving here is an experience in itself, with narrow, winding roads demanding left-side driving, frequent honking around hairpin turns, and yielding to the island’s diverse non-human inhabitants: donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas.
St. John donkeys lounging on Honeymoon Beach
As the smallest and most pristine of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John offers a seamless escape from everyday pressures. Days here commence with vibrant sunrises, serenaded by rooster calls, and conclude with breathtaking sunsets and gentle trade winds. The heart of each day is often spent immersed in the natural saltwater pools of this Caribbean gem.
Reaching St. John from Austin is an adventure. The island lacks an airport, and direct flights to neighboring St. Thomas are unavailable. The journey typically spans 16 hours, involving multiple flights, a taxi van ride to the Red Hook ferry dock in St. Thomas, a swift ferry to Cruz Bay on St. John, and a Jeep ride to our final destination. Yet, upon arrival in this island paradise, the travel fatigue instantly dissipates. Our children, seasoned St. John travelers despite their young ages (9, 13, and 16), now navigate the journey with anticipation, understanding the reward that awaits.
My own love affair with St. John began during a college trip. Shortly after graduation from The University of Texas, I traded my office job for a work-exchange program amidst the Caribbean sun. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-resort, I cleaned guest tents in exchange for accommodation, spending my free time exploring stunning beaches. Six weeks turned into a desire to stay. I found a job at the island’s newspaper, spending years chronicling island life and enjoying weekends by the sea.
Over two decades, my affection for St. John has deepened, especially as it has become a cherished retreat for my own family. If you’re considering a trip to St. John, this insider’s guide will introduce you to the best beaches, hikes, activities, and accommodations this Caribbean island paradise has to offer.
Trunk Bay, known for its quarter-mile strip of pillowy white sand and sparkling water
Beaches: Discovering St. John’s Bay for Every Day
Our family motto on St. John is simple: every day is beach day. St. John boasts an abundance of breathtaking bays, more than you could explore in a single trip. To begin your beach journey, the unspoiled beaches along the island’s North Shore are highly recommended.
Trunk Bay: The Iconic Caribbean Beach
Trunk Bay, famed for its crescent of soft, white sand and incredibly clear turquoise waters, consistently ranks among the world’s top beaches. It’s undoubtedly St. John’s most popular and photographed beach. While mid-morning brings more visitors to this celebrated stretch of sand, arriving early or later in the day offers a more secluded experience. During the low season, from late August to mid-November, you might find yourself enjoying the entire beach in peaceful solitude, regardless of the time. Trunk Bay’s underwater snorkeling trail also adds to its allure, making it a must-visit for any St. John itinerary.
Maho Bay: Sea Turtle Encounters
Maho Bay, characterized by its calm, shallow waters, is perfect for families with young children. It’s also renowned as the prime location for spotting sea turtles in St. John. Lush seagrass beds just offshore provide a thriving habitat for green sea turtles. Swimming in the tranquil bay, you’ll likely encounter dozens of these graceful creatures. Remember to observe them respectfully, maintaining a distance and never touching any marine life. Kayaking or paddleboarding in Maho Bay further enhances the chances of close encounters with turtles and other marine inhabitants.
Maho Bay is your best bet for seeing sea turtles on St. John
Francis Bay: Tranquility and Marine Life
Just a short distance from Maho Bay lies the serene Francis Bay, offering a quieter beach experience. This tranquil stretch of golden sand marks the last beach on St. John’s North Shore. Its clear, glass-like waters are ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Here, we often encounter sea turtles, schools of juvenile fish, and stingrays. We’ve also been fortunate to spot octopus, starfish, and even a baby blacktip reef shark and squid near the shore. The peaceful ambiance and diverse marine life make Francis Bay a hidden gem on St. John.
Gibney/Oppenheimer Beach: A Secluded Paradise
Gibney Beach, also known as Oppenheimer Beach, is a true St. John treasure and a family favorite. This secluded sugar-sand beach, framed by lush green sea grape trees and vibrant turquoise waters, presents a picture-perfect Caribbean scene. Parking is extremely limited, which contributes to its secluded and tranquil atmosphere. If you manage to secure a parking spot, you’ll be among the fortunate few to enjoy this idyllic and often deserted beach. The calm waters and shade make it ideal for a relaxing day away from crowds.
Gorgeous Gibney/Oppenheimer Beach rarely has anyone on it because there are very few parking spaces
Hiking Trails with Rewarding Views and Refreshing Dips
Exploring St. John’s extensive network of trails within the Virgin Islands National Park is an excellent way to exercise while immersing yourself in the island’s history and natural beauty. A significant bonus is that many of the best trails culminate at a beautiful beach, offering a refreshing cool-down after your hike.
Reef Bay Trail: History and Seclusion
For a challenging hike, the 6-mile roundtrip Reef Bay Trail is highly recommended. It winds through old-growth forests, showcasing some of the island’s oldest and tallest trees. A detour leads to ancient petroglyphs, carved between 900-1500 AD by the Taino people. Further along, explore the ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Mill, which operated until 1916. The trail concludes at the secluded Reef Bay on St. John’s south shore, perfect for a swim before the uphill return hike. This trail combines history, nature, and a rewarding beach at the end.
Cinnamon Bay and America Hill: Ruins and Panoramic Views
The Cinnamon Bay Trail offers a less strenuous hike, passing the ruins of the historic Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation. A short but steep ascent leads to the 19th-century America Hill Great House Ruins. The uphill path meanders through a shaded forest of mango, genip, and guava berry trees. At the summit, panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays await. Cool off afterwards at Cinnamon Bay, St. John’s longest beach, known for its breezy atmosphere and watersports opportunities.
Views of Maho and Francis Bays can be captured from America Hill
Lind Point Trail to Honeymoon and Salomon Beaches: Seclusion and Accessibility
The Lind Point Trail, starting near the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay, leads to Honeymoon Beach. This less than 2-mile roundtrip hike is manageable for families with young children. Honeymoon and its neighboring Salomon Beach are accessible only by foot or boat, making them more secluded, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive. These pristine white-sand beaches offer tranquility and excellent snorkeling opportunities away from the busier bays.
Ram Head Trail: Southernmost Point and Dramatic Landscapes
Venture to the quieter side of the island and hike to the summit of Ram Head, St. John’s southernmost point. Starting from Salt Pond Bay, the mile-long trail traverses a rocky beach, steep inclines, and dramatic cliffs. The reward is a 360-degree view of the ocean from the top. Afterwards, relax in the clear waters of Salt Pond Bay, or explore Drunk Bay, known for its beach rock art. This hike offers stunning coastal scenery and a sense of remote exploration.
Honeymoon (pictured here) and Salomon beaches can be accessed from the same trail
Where to Stay in St. John: From Luxury Villas to Cozy Inns
St. John’s unspoiled charm sets it apart from many Caribbean destinations. Accommodation options range from luxurious boutique hotels and intimate inns to spacious vacation villas and charming Caribbean cottages. Splitting your stay between Cruz Bay and Coral Bay offers diverse island experiences.
Cruz Bay and Coral Bay: Dual Island Experiences
Cruz Bay, the island’s main town, provides easy access to amenities, restaurants, and ferries. Coral Bay, on the quieter east side, offers a more laid-back atmosphere and stunning natural beauty. Dividing your time between these two areas allows you to experience different facets of St. John.
Calichi at Picture Point: Eco-Luxury with Panoramic Views
For an eco-conscious and luxurious stay, consider Calichi at Picture Point. These private villas are perched high on Bordeaux Mountain, offering breathtaking views of Coral Bay and surrounding islands. The stunning Tower Villa provides panoramic vistas stretching to St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, Vieques, Tortola, Jost Van Dyke, and St. Croix.
Out of the Blue Villa: South Shore Serenity
Just minutes from Cruz Bay, Out of the Blue vacation villa overlooks Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point on the island’s South Shore. This spacious villa provides stunning views of the bejeweled waters and a tranquil setting for a relaxing St. John escape.
For a luxurious, eco-friendly stay on St. John with jaw-dropping views, check out Calichi at Picture Point
Island Hopping to the British Virgin Islands: A Day Trip from St. John
A significant advantage of a St. John vacation is its proximity to the British Virgin Islands (BVI). If your itinerary and budget permit, exploring the nearby BVIs is highly recommended.
BVI Boat Charters: Exploring Mariner’s Paradise
Consider a private boat charter to explore the BVI. Island Roots Charters, a local company, offers customized itineraries to top BVI destinations. A full-day charter can whisk you away to experience the highlights of the British Virgin Islands.
Sandy Spit, The Baths, and Jost Van Dyke: BVI Highlights
A BVI day trip might include Sandy Spit, a tiny, picturesque islet; The Baths at Virgin Gorda, with its unique granite boulder formations; and Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay, famous for its white sand beaches and beach bars. Snorkeling at The Indians, a group of islets teeming with marine life, is another must-do. Enjoying a Painkiller cocktail while watching the sunset in Jost Van Dyke is the perfect way to conclude a BVI adventure.
The stunning view from Out of the Blue villa on St. John
St. John Island, Caribbean, offers an unparalleled escape, blending natural beauty with a relaxed island vibe. From pristine beaches and invigorating hikes to luxurious accommodations and easy access to the BVI, St. John provides a rejuvenating and unforgettable Caribbean experience. Plan your visit to this island paradise and discover the magic of St. John for yourself.
Book an unforgettable day at sea with Island Roots Boat Charters on St. John
