New York City, a metropolis constantly reinventing itself, has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent decades. Thanks to visionary leadership and a thriving economy, the city has shed much of its gritty past, welcoming a new era of commerce and improved infrastructure. Nowhere is this change more evident than in Times Square. Once notorious for its seedy underbelly of adult entertainment and illicit activities, Times Square has been revitalized into a vibrant hub for tourists and entertainment seekers. However, amidst the dazzling lights and Broadway buzz, finding an authentic, top-tier New York-style pizza experience can be surprisingly challenging. Beyond the familiar chain restaurants that offer predictable fare, and even the famed but sometimes inconsistent Ray’s Pizza, a truly exceptional slice in the heart of Times Square has remained elusive – until now, perhaps.
During a recent business trip to Midtown Manhattan, I had the opportunity to meet a colleague visiting from the West Coast. Eager to treat me to lunch, he suggested John’s Pizzeria of Times Square, a name that resonated with him as a quintessential New York pizza destination. Despite being a seasoned pizza enthusiast always on the lookout for new spots, this particular John’s was a new name to me. Established in 1997, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square capitalized on the area’s resurgence, ingeniously converting an old, abandoned church into its expansive restaurant. It’s important to note that while sharing a first name, this establishment explicitly disclaims any affiliation with the legendary John’s of Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village. Leveraging its prime location, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square has since expanded its brand to locations in Jersey City and the Bronx.
Enjoying a pleasant midday stroll, we arrived at John’s Pizzeria on 44th Street, conveniently located adjacent to Sardi’s, a renowned landmark in the Theater District’s dining scene. Despite the lunchtime rush, we were seated promptly, a welcome surprise. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the restaurant. A substantial bar area greets you upon entry, leading to three distinct dining sections, including a balcony level that offers a captivating view of their coal-fired pizza oven. It came as no surprise when I later learned of their claim to be the largest pizza restaurant in the United States. However, mindful that size and aesthetics are no substitute for quality, a nagging concern arose – were we about to fall into a tourist trap, lured in by the spectacle only to be met with overpriced, subpar pizza?
Interior of John's Pizzeria Times Square New York, highlighting the bar area and dining space.
As we perused the menu, a clear message emblazoned on our waitress’s t-shirt caught my eye: “No Slices.” This policy dictated that we order whole pies, prompting a negotiation given our differing pizza preferences. I opted for a small plain cheese pizza, the “$14.25 Traditional” six-slice option, while my companion chose a pie loaded with meat toppings. In a style reminiscent of the original John’s and in contrast to Brooklyn pizza traditions, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square utilizes their coal ovens to bake both their standard pizzas and the Margherita variety.
Ambiance inside John's Pizzeria in Times Square, showcasing the spacious dining area and decor.
Our pizzas arrived swiftly. Visually, they presented an intriguing appearance, characterized by a blackened, coal-fired crust adorned with an unconventional swirl of cheese and tomato sauce. I appreciated the thin, crispy look and the charred edges of the crust, although it was immediately apparent that my cheese pizza was quite heavily cheesed. Taking the first bite, any initial skepticism melted away. The coal-fired flavor was undeniably delicious and satisfying. This was certainly not the stereotypical tourist-trap pizza experience I had feared.
View of the coal-fired pizza oven area inside John's Pizzeria Times Square, emphasizing the cooking method.
However, the generous layer of cheese did present a couple of drawbacks. Its thickness led to some congealed, insufficiently melted patches, while towards the edges, the sheer weight of the cheese caused it to become runny and overwhelm the crust. Simply put, a slightly lighter hand with the cheese would have improved the overall cooking and texture. Another minor disappointment was the pizza’s serving temperature. It wasn’t as hot as I would have preferred and cooled down relatively quickly, detracting from the enjoyment of the final slices.
Close-up of a freshly baked pizza at John's Pizzeria of Times Square, highlighting the crust, cheese, and sauce.
In conclusion, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square is a noteworthy establishment serving up tasty, coal-fired pizza crafted with quality ingredients. The experience of enjoying pizza cooked over coal is always special, and like John’s of Bleecker Street, their commitment to traditional coal-fired baking is commendable. With a minor adjustment – perhaps a slightly less generous application of cheese and ensuring a hotter serving temperature – John’s Pizzeria of Times Square has the potential to elevate their pizza to an even greater level of deliciousness.
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing
John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY 10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com
