Along the edgy stretch of lower Second Avenue, the bright red neon sign of John’s on 12th Street shines like a welcoming light. For those venturing towards the trendy Momofuku, it’s a gentle nudge that a classic, century-old Italian eatery awaits just around the corner. New York City is dotted with Italian restaurants like this, the kind where devoted regulars declare you’ll find “the best Italian food in the city.” This often leaves newcomers puzzled, perhaps as they tentatively nudge a bland meatball around their plate.
But John’s is genuinely a step above many of its counterparts. I savored a pappardelle dish, generously topped with a rich pork and beef ragu. My enthusiastic waiter, clearly a John’s devotee, mentioned it had been simmering for a full five hours. Whether or not it was the absolute best ragu ever, it undeniably tasted like it had been crafted with time and genuine care. And the garlic bread? Surprisingly moist and bursting with flavor – a minor miracle for this often-tired appetizer.
Recently, John’s on 12th marked its 100th anniversary by turning back time, offering prices at 1908 levels for a day. My waiter recounted that the restaurant was packed from morning till night, culminating in an evening celebration with friends and family. Among the crowd were surely the East Village old-timers who form the core of John’s clientele, though travel guides also steer a good number of curious tourists through its doors.
Most evenings, you’ll find owners Mike Alpert and Nick Sitnycky holding court near the cozy central bar. They took over from the founding Pucciatti family back in 1973 and have been at the helm ever since. Landlord issues are nonexistent; Sitnycky owns the building. And from all appearances, they’ve changed virtually nothing. The breakfront, the expansive murals that run along the upper walls, the intricate tile floor, the numerous small, wood-framed mirrors placed at eye level – all whisper tales of pre-war New York, harking back to the era of the First World War. Even the coat hooks look so ancient they seem to have sprouted organically from the walls.
There’s a certain charm in knowing that Italian-American anarchist Carlo Tresca was a frequent diner at some of these very tables. Yet, the defining feature of John’s on 12th, the element that elevates it from merely a restaurant to something truly special, is the candle. Sometime after the repeal of Prohibition, a candle was lit in its designated spot at John’s each night. Over decades, the wax has accumulated, gradually transforming a corner of the restaurant into a remarkable mountain of white wax. This waxy wonder was even more imposing before it was relocated to a less central spot. Due to its immense size, it had to be halved during the move. A visit to John’s on 12th isn’t complete without paying homage to this flame. This extraordinary wax formation is undeniably half the reason to experience John’s. It’s almost unbelievable that this venerable establishment has never succumbed to a fire. —Brooks of Sheffield
