New York City, over the last quarter century, has undergone a remarkable transformation, shedding its grittier past for a revitalized and more polished present. This renaissance is perhaps most evident in Times Square. Once notorious for its seedier elements, it has blossomed into a vibrant hub for tourists. Yet, amidst this Midtown mecca, finding truly exceptional, classic New York-style pizza can be a surprisingly difficult task. Beyond the ubiquitous chain restaurants familiar to visitors from anywhere in the country and the often-underwhelming Ray’s Pizza, a quest for a genuinely great slice in Times Square often ends in disappointment.
Recently, I found myself in Midtown Manhattan for a business meeting, hosting a colleague from the West Coast. Eager to treat me to lunch at a New York pizza establishment, he suggested John’s of Times Square. While new to me, I discovered John’s Pizzeria opened its doors in 1997, capitalizing on the Times Square resurgence by converting an old, abandoned church into its space. Notably, they explicitly disclaim any affiliation with the renowned John’s of Bleecker Street, instead leveraging their prime location for expansion, now boasting locations in Jersey City and the Bronx.
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Exterior view of John’s of Times Square restaurant in Midtown Manhattan, showcasing its prominent location and signage.
Enjoying a pleasant midday stroll, we arrived at John’s, situated on 44th Street, conveniently adjacent to Sardis, a Theater District landmark. Despite the late lunch hour, we were seated immediately, a welcome surprise. Stepping inside John’s of Times Square, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the restaurant. A substantial bar area greets guests upon entry, leading to three distinct dining sections, including a balcony area that provides a view of their coal-fired pizza oven. It was not surprising to later learn of their claim as the largest pizza restaurant in the United States. However, mindful that size and aesthetics are no substitute for quality, I couldn’t help but wonder if we were about to encounter an overpriced Times Square tourist trap serving mediocre food.
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Interior of John’s of Times Square, highlighting the spacious dining area and the restaurant’s ambiance.
Perusing the menu, a clear message on our waitress’s T-shirt caught my attention: “No Slices.” Compelled to order a whole pie, and with differing pizza preferences, I opted for a small plain cheese pizza, labeled a “Traditional” pie priced at $14.25 for six slices. My lunch companion chose a pizza loaded with meat toppings. Similar to the other John’s, and in contrast to Brooklyn pizzerias, John’s of Times Square utilizes their coal ovens to bake both a standard pizza and a “Margherita.”
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View of the coal-fired pizza oven inside John’s of Times Square, a central feature of the restaurant’s cooking process.
Our pizzas arrived promptly. Visually, they presented an unusual appearance, featuring a blackened, coal-fired crust topped with a distinctive swirl of cheese and tomato sauce. I appreciated the thin, crispy look and the charred crust edges, although it was immediately apparent that my plain cheese pie was generously overloaded with cheese. Upon tasting, I was pleasantly surprised. The coal-fired flavor was undeniably delicious and satisfying. This was certainly not the stereotypical tourist-trap pizza I had feared.
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Close-up of the pizza preparation area in John’s of Times Square, showing the ingredients and pizza-making process.
However, the excessive cheese did present some drawbacks. Its thickness led to congealed patches in areas where it hadn’t fully melted. At the slice tips, the sheer weight of the cheese caused it to become runny and overwhelm the crust. Simply put, less cheese would have resulted in better cooking and overall texture. Another disappointment was the pizza’s serving temperature; it wasn’t hot enough and cooled down rapidly, making the last slice less enjoyable.
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A whole plain cheese pizza from John’s of Times Square, showcasing the coal-fired crust and topping distribution.
In conclusion, John’s of Times Square is an impressive venue serving a flavorful pizza crafted with quality ingredients. Dining on pizza cooked over coal is always a unique and enjoyable experience. Like John’s of Bleecker Street, I appreciate their commitment to preparing traditional pizza using coal-fired ovens. Perhaps on my next visit to John’s of Times Square, requesting less cheese and ensuring a hotter serving temperature would elevate the pizza experience significantly.
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing
John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY 10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com
