Brooklyn, New York is a borough famed for its diverse culinary landscape, and when it comes to iconic sandwiches, the roast beef sandwich reigns supreme for many locals. Last winter, my exploration of Brooklyn’s best roast beef led me to Gravesend to sample the celebrated offerings at Brennan and Carr. I believed, at the time, that Brennan and Carr stood alone in their dedication to crafting the perfect roast beef sandwich within Brooklyn’s borders. However, my quest to uncover more Bensonhurst gems led me to a recommendation from writer and neighborhood native, Chris Molanphy: John’s Deli. Like Brennan and Carr, John’s Deli has cultivated a strong reputation, particularly for their signature roast beef sandwich. As someone always eager to sample a great beef sandwich, including the classic cheesesteak, I knew I had to visit John’s Deli.
While I’m familiar with Bensonhurst, having lived there for a period after a fire in my family’s Bay Ridge apartment, John’s Deli had remained undiscovered by me until Chris’s recommendation. Reflecting on my time in Bensonhurst, I realize I regret not venturing beyond the usual pizza and Chinese food – I clearly missed out on some exceptional local fare. Similar to Brennan and Carr, John’s Deli is deeply rooted in its neighborhood. Established in 1968, John’s Deli has remained a fixture at its original location on 86th Street and Stillwell Avenue. For those traveling from further afield, unlike Brennan and Carr which can be a bit more remote, John’s Deli boasts excellent accessibility; the elevated D train line runs right by the deli, visible from the window. Stepping inside, you’ll find John’s Deli is a classic hero sandwich spot, offering a wide array of both hot and cold sandwiches. Beyond sandwiches, the menu extends to hot platters and sides, including their much-loved rice balls, going beyond typical deli fare like fries and mozzarella sticks.
Despite the tempting variety, my mission was singular: to experience John’s Deli’s signature hot roast beef sandwich. This Bensonhurst specialty features tender roast beef, creamy mozzarella (locally known as “mutz”), sweet caramelized onions, and rich gravy, all nestled in a crusty hard roll. Priced at $6.75 for a regular sandwich and $8.25 for a hero size, it’s an affordable indulgence. Alongside my roast beef hero, I opted for a potato croquette and a soda to complete the meal.
John’s Deli’s roast beef sandwich certainly lived up to the hype. The generous portion of roast beef was remarkably tender, and the gravy provided ample flavor without overwhelming the sandwich or creating excessive mess – a notable contrast to the very generously dipped Brennan and Carr sandwich, which requires a stack of napkins. The ambiance of John’s Deli exudes a comfortable, old-school charm. It’s unpretentious and welcoming, with walls adorned with photos of celebrities and vintage neighborhood scenes, adding to its local character.
Choosing a definitive “better” roast beef sandwich between John’s Deli and Brennan and Carr is a difficult task. They present different approaches to roast beef preparation and presentation. However, both delis deliver incredibly satisfying sandwiches without breaking the bank. My recommendation? If you’re not a Bensonhurst local, both John’s Deli and Brennan and Carr are destinations worthy of a special trip. And for the truly dedicated roast beef aficionado, the 2.6-mile distance between them makes it entirely feasible to sample both in a single afternoon.
John’s Deli
2033 Stillwell Ave., Brooklyn, NY.
Subway: D train to 25th Avenue.
Hours: Mon-Sat, 8am – 10pm; Sunday 9am – 8pm.
