John Besh’s Return to New Orleans Dining: Delacroix and theshadow of Past Allegations

Seven years after facing serious allegations of fostering a culture of sexual harassment within his restaurant group, celebrity chef John Besh is stepping back into the New Orleans dining scene with a new venture. As reported by the Times-Picayune/New Orleans Advocate, Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar is set to open its doors next to the Riverwalk Outlets mall on Spanish Plaza. This opening marks what some are calling a “return” for John Besh, though questions linger about whether he ever truly left the industry he helped shape.

The Lingering Shadow of 2017 Allegations Against John Besh

In 2017, an extensive eight-month investigation by the Times-Picayune, led by journalist Brett Anderson, brought to light claims from 25 current and former employees of the Besh Restaurant Group (BRG). These individuals detailed a pervasive environment of sexual harassment, culminating in four formal complaints filed with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC). John Besh himself was directly implicated, with one former employee alleging a coerced sexual relationship and a disturbing incident of non-consensual sexual contact in her EEOC complaint. She also claimed retaliation for attempting to end the relationship.

In the immediate aftermath of these revelations, John Besh stepped down as CEO of Besh Restaurant Group, which subsequently rebranded as BRG Hospitality. He issued a public statement acknowledging a “consensual relationship” and apologizing for “unacceptable” behavior. However, despite relinquishing his CEO title, John Besh remained a co-owner and partner in the company, continuing to benefit financially from BRG’s portfolio of 12 restaurants. This raises questions about the true nature of his departure and the extent of accountability taken.

Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar: What is John Besh’s Role?

Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar is described as a Louisiana seafood-focused restaurant with a prominent oyster bar. While the Times-Picayune/New Orleans Advocate frames this as Besh’s restaurant “return,” BRG’s communications manager clarified to Eater that John Besh’s role at Delacroix mirrors his ongoing involvement with other BRG establishments. His primary focus will be on “mentoring and training BRG’s many chefs” in a back-of-house culinary capacity. He will not serve as the executive chef at Delacroix.

This carefully worded statement suggests a desire to downplay John Besh’s public profile. BRG representatives emphasized that Besh is not seeking to “regain the spotlight” but is instead focused on “teaching and inspiring BRG’s young chefs.” Octavio Mantilla, who co-founded BRG with John Besh and also faced accusations of contributing to the toxic workplace culture, echoed this sentiment, stating Besh’s main role is now to “teach and inspire.” Mantilla himself was recently appointed as a commissioner for the Ernest N. Morial New Orleans Convention Center by Louisiana Governor Jeff Landry, further highlighting the continued presence of key figures from the 2017 scandal within New Orleans’ influential circles.

Public Funding and the Uncomfortable Questions Surrounding Besh’s New Venture

Adding another layer of complexity to John Besh’s new restaurant is the source of funding. The New Orleans City Council approved a measure earlier this year allowing RockStep Capital, the operator of the Riverwalk Outlets mall, to raise up to $25 million for development in Spanish Plaza, including restaurants like Delacroix. This funding mechanism involves an additional 2 percent sales tax levied on customers of the Riverwalk shops, meaning public money is directly contributing to John Besh’s latest restaurant venture.

This public financing raises ethical questions, given the unresolved nature of the allegations against John Besh and the continued financial benefit he derived from BRG even after stepping down as CEO. It highlights a potential disconnect between public sentiment regarding accountability for sexual misconduct and the economic development priorities of the city.

Echoes of Comebacks in the Restaurant Industry

John Besh’s situation is not unique in the restaurant industry. In the wake of the #MeToo movement, numerous high-profile chefs and restaurateurs faced similar allegations of sexual harassment and misconduct. While some experienced significant professional repercussions, others have attempted to stage comebacks. Ken Friedman, for instance, quietly played a role in the launch of the popular LA restaurant Horses, and Mario Batali has hinted at a return to the public eye.

The trajectory of these figures, including John Besh, raises broader questions about forgiveness, redemption, and accountability in the restaurant industry and society at large. While John Besh may be focusing on a behind-the-scenes role at Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar, his name remains inextricably linked to the allegations of 2017. As Delacroix prepares to open in early 2025, the New Orleans community and the wider culinary world will be watching to see how John Besh navigates this new chapter and whether the industry is truly ready for his return to the forefront, even in a purportedly diminished role.

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