New York City, a metropolis that has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent decades, shines brighter than ever. Fueled by visionary leadership and a thriving economy, the city has experienced a surge in commerce and infrastructure improvements. This revitalization has played a significant role in diminishing the crime and grit that once tarnished NYC’s reputation as a premier destination.
Perhaps nowhere is this transformation more evident than in Times Square. Shedding its past as a district dominated by adult entertainment and illicit activities, Times Square has reclaimed its position as a vibrant hub for tourists. However, for visitors seeking an authentic, top-tier New York-style pizza experience amidst the dazzling lights of Midtown, options have been surprisingly limited. Beyond familiar chain restaurants and the somewhat underwhelming Ray’s Pizza, finding a truly exceptional slice in this iconic location has remained a challenge.
During a recent business trip to Midtown Manhattan, I had the opportunity to meet an associate visiting from the West Coast. Eager to treat me to lunch, he suggested John’s Pizzeria of Times Square, a name he recognized as a New York pizza institution. While new to me, I discovered that John’s Pizzeria Times Square opened its doors in 1997, capitalizing on the Times Square resurgence and ingeniously repurposing an old, abandoned church into its current space. It’s important to note that John’s Pizzeria Times Square explicitly states no affiliation with the renowned John’s of Bleecker Street. Leveraging its prime location, John’s Pizzeria Times Square has since expanded to locations in Jersey City and the Bronx.
John's Pizzeria Times Square exterior view, showcasing its location in the bustling Theater District
Enjoying a pleasant midday walk, we arrived at John’s Pizzeria Times Square, situated on 44th Street, conveniently adjacent to Sardi’s, a celebrated landmark in the Theater District’s culinary scene. Despite the late lunch hour, we were pleasantly surprised to be seated immediately. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the restaurant. A sizable bar area greets you upon entry, leading to three distinct dining sections, including a balcony area that offers a view of their impressive coal-fired pizza oven. Later, I learned of their claim to be the largest pizza restaurant in the United States, which was entirely believable given the expansive space. However, seasoned in the knowledge that size and aesthetics are no substitute for quality, a nagging concern arose – were we about to fall prey to an overpriced Times Square tourist trap serving mediocre food?
John's Pizzeria Times Square interior dining area, highlighting the spacious layout and ambiance
Perusing the menu, a clear message printed on our waitress’s T-shirt caught my attention: “No Slices.” Faced with the requirement to order a whole pie, and with differing pizza preferences, I opted for a small plain cheese pizza, labeled a “Traditional” pie priced at $14.25 for six slices. My lunch companion chose a pie loaded with meat toppings. Similar to other “John’s” establishments, and in contrast to many Brooklyn pizzerias, John’s Pizzeria Times Square utilizes their coal ovens to prepare both regular pizzas and Margherita pizzas.
Inside John's Pizzeria Times Square, featuring the bar area and the restaurant's impressive size
Our pizzas arrived swiftly. Visually, they presented a slightly unconventional appearance, characterized by a blackened, coal-fired crust generously topped with an unusual swirl of cheese and tomato sauce. I appreciated the thin, crispy look and the charred edges of the crust, although it was immediately apparent that my pizza was laden with an excessive amount of cheese. However, upon taking the first bite, any apprehension quickly dissipated. The coal-fired flavor was undeniably delicious and satisfying. This was certainly not the stereotypical tourist-trap pizza experience I had feared.
The coal-fired pizza oven at John's Pizzeria Times Square, a key element in their pizza preparation
Despite the positive initial impression, the heavy layer of cheese did present some drawbacks. Its thickness led to some congealed patches where it hadn’t fully melted, while the sheer weight of the cheese caused it to become runny at the tips, overwhelming the crust’s structural integrity. Simply put, a slightly less generous application of cheese would have resulted in a more evenly cooked pizza. Another minor disappointment was the pizza’s serving temperature. It wasn’t as hot as I would have preferred, and it cooled down relatively quickly, making the last slice less enjoyable.
A freshly baked coal-fired pizza at John's Pizzeria Times Square, ready to be served
Overall, John’s Pizzeria Times Square is a noteworthy establishment that serves a flavorful pizza crafted with quality ingredients. Any opportunity to savor pizza cooked over a coal fire is a special treat. Much like John’s of Bleecker Street, I appreciate their commitment to preparing traditional pizzas using coal ovens. Perhaps on my next visit to John’s Pizzeria Times Square, requesting less cheese and a slightly hotter pie will elevate the experience to an even higher level of pizza perfection!
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing
John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY 10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com
