Holiday movies are a cherished tradition, each with its own dedicated fanbase. For some, it’s the heartwarming classic “It’s a Wonderful Life,” while others favor the nostalgic charm of “A Christmas Story.” More recently, films like “Elf” have captured the hearts of new generations. And then there are those who, thinking of quintessential holiday films, immediately jump to “Die Hard”—a debate for another time, perhaps, but undeniably a favorite for many. Speaking of favorites, my appreciation for actors like Reginald VelJohnson is well-documented. But today, we’re not delving into buddy cop action or debating movie genres. Instead, we’re taking a culinary detour inspired by the often-overlooked 1994 Christmas gem, “The Ref.” This dark comedy, starring Denis Leary and Kevin Spacey, offered a delightful surprise upon re-watching: the presence of John Scurti.
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It was quite the discovery seeing John Scurti in “The Ref,” especially considering how many remember him vividly as Lieutenant Shea from the acclaimed series “Rescue Me.” For those unfamiliar with “Rescue Me,” you’re in for a treat—seven seasons of compelling television await. And what better time to binge-watch than during the snowy holiday season? As you consider your viewing list, perhaps you’ll be tempted by the butterscotch pudding recipe linked in the original article. But for now, let’s focus on another treat from “The Ref”: Kringlors.
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In “The Ref,” Denis Leary plays Gus, a burglar caught in a bind. Seeking refuge from roadblocks and a town-wide curfew, he ends up taking Caroline (Judy Davis) and Lloyd (Kevin Spacey) hostage. His plan? To blend in by pretending to be part of their family as Caroline’s in-laws arrive for Christmas dinner. However, Gus unwittingly chose the most dysfunctional family imaginable, relying on their strained composure and the tolerance of their equally challenging relatives, including a particularly critical mother-in-law played by Glynis Johns.
The Christmas dinner scene is where everything nearly implodes. The meal, reflecting Caroline’s half-hearted ventures into Scandinavian cooking, features a bizarre mix: roast suckling pig, Kringlors with honey-pecan sauce, seven-day-old lutefisk, and the mysterious lamb gookins. While lamb gookins seem to be lost to culinary history (or perhaps a figment of the movie’s comedic imagination), Kringlors, thankfully, are very real and deliciously bakeable.
We’re focusing on Kringlors not just because of their quirky name, which indeed sounds more like a space villain than a pastry, but because the holidays are synonymous with baked goods. While opinions on main courses like ham, turkey, or questionable fish dishes vary wildly, everyone generally agrees on the universal appeal of holiday baking. Kringlors, with their unique texture and flavor, are a welcome addition to any festive spread. They’re sure to spark conversation—perhaps even about the talented John Scurti and his diverse roles, from “The Ref” to “Rescue Me.”
Alternatively, for the more adventurous baker, “The Ref” also hints at an Orange Marzipan Cake with Crème de Menthe and Lime Zest. But for today, let’s master Kringlors, a dessert in three delightful parts. This recipe is adapted from “The Superbly Swedish Cookbook.”
Part I: The Base
- ½ cup butter
- 1 cup flour
- 1 tablespoon water
Instructions: Combine butter and flour as you would for pie crust, using two knives to cut in the butter, then finish mixing by hand. Pat the dough out very thickly (about 1/4 inch) on an ungreased cookie sheet. Set aside.
Part II: The Choux-like Layer
- ½ cup butter
- 1 cup water
- 1 cup flour
- 3 eggs, beaten (see note below)
- 1 teaspoon almond extract
Instructions: In a saucepan, bring butter and water to a boil. Remove from heat and quickly add flour, stirring until combined. Incorporate beaten eggs one at a time, stirring well after each addition—the texture will be unique and somewhat sticky. Stir in almond extract. Spread this mixture evenly over the base dough on the cookie sheet, leaving a small margin at the edges. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 45 minutes.
Part III: The Almond Glaze
- 1 cup powdered sugar
- 1 tablespoon butter, softened
- ½ teaspoon almond extract
Instructions: Mix powdered sugar, softened butter, and almond extract until smooth. Spread this glaze over the baked pastry while it’s still slightly warm. Serve warm or cold, traditionally cut lengthwise and then diagonally into strips. In “The Ref,” Caroline shapes them into pretzels, a technique the author humorously connects to their teenage experience at Auntie Anne’s Pretzels.
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To complement the Kringlors, the Honey-Pecan Sauce adds a perfect touch. For this, we turn to the National Honey Board for inspiration.
Honey-Pecan Dipping Sauce
Ingredients:
- 1-1/2 cups vanilla flavored Greek yogurt
- 1/4 cup chopped pecans, lightly toasted
- 1/2 cup sage honey
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Directions:
Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Chill until ready to serve. For an enhanced flavor, consider using real, high-quality honey and a dash of almond extract to echo the Kringlors.
With Kringlors and Honey-Pecan Sauce in your repertoire, you’ll not only have a delightful holiday treat but also a conversation starter. You can share the fun story of “The Ref,” the quirky Kringlors, and maybe even mention the versatile John Scurti, connecting pop culture and delicious baking in one go. This holiday season, bake up some Kringlors and give your family something truly unique to talk about—besides the usual holiday stress!
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