Twenty years ago, the pristine shores of Trunk Bay in St. John, US Virgin Islands, witnessed a personal milestone – my wedding. This small Caribbean gem, our home for the initial, carefree years of marriage, holds a special place in our hearts. This past summer, we marked our anniversary with a month-long return to St. John, our cherished happy place. It’s the sanctuary we seek with our three children as often as possible, to disconnect, rejuvenate, and embrace a slower, more relaxed, and salt-kissed way of life.
Trunk Bay, St. John, US Virgin Islands, showcasing its pristine white sand and turquoise waters, under a clear blue sky.
St. John’s allure is undeniable. A significant two-thirds of the island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park, ensuring a landscape of verdant, untouched hills, immaculate white beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters. This commitment to preservation sets St. John apart from many Caribbean islands that have succumbed to overdevelopment. Here, the absence of all-inclusive resorts, bustling highways, and even traffic lights on this 19-square-mile island, home to approximately 4,000 residents, speaks volumes. Life moves at a different pace. Driving is on the left, navigating narrow, winding roads, with a friendly honk preceding each hairpin turn, and frequent pauses for the island’s charming inhabitants – donkeys, goats, mongoose, chickens, deer, and iguanas – are commonplace.
Donkeys relaxing on the white sand of Honeymoon Beach, St. John, US Virgin Islands, under the shade of palm trees.
St. John, the smallest yet arguably most exquisite of the US Virgin Islands, offers an effortless escape from the pressures of everyday life. Each day unfolds with breathtaking sherbet-colored sunrises and the cheerful crowing of roosters, transitioning into evenings painted with cotton candy sunsets, cooled by gentle trade winds. And somewhere in between, you’ll likely find us immersed in the natural saltwater haven that is the Caribbean Sea.
Reaching St. John from Austin is an adventure in itself. The absence of an airport on St. John necessitates a journey involving multiple steps. Direct flights from Austin to St. Thomas aren’t available, typically resulting in a 16-hour travel day. This includes two or three flights, a shared taxi van ride from St. Thomas airport to the Red Hook ferry dock, a brisk 20-minute ferry crossing to Cruz Bay on St. John, and a final Jeep ride over hilly terrain to our island destination. However, upon arrival in this island paradise, the travel fatigue instantly dissolves. Our children, aged 9, 13, and 16, seasoned St. John travelers themselves, having visited more times than their years, now take the journey in their stride, knowing the reward that awaits is unequivocally worth the effort.
My personal connection with St. John began during a college senior year family trip. The island’s charm was immediate and profound. Months after graduating from The University of Texas, I traded the confines of a media relations cubicle for an enriching work-exchange program bathed in Caribbean sunshine. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-tourism resort for just four hours daily, cleaning guest tents (unpaid), I received free lodging and the invaluable opportunity to spend my days on the most stunning beaches I had ever encountered. Six weeks flew by, and departure felt impossible. A spontaneous hitchhiking trip to Cruz Bay led to a position as the sole writer and copy editor for the island’s local newspaper. The following blissful years were spent chronicling island life for the weekly publication and enjoying weekends exploring beaches and sailing the turquoise waters.
Two decades later, my affection for this special island, once our home, has only deepened, especially now that it has become a cherished retreat for our own children. For those contemplating a trip to St. John, consider this your insider’s guide to the island’s best beaches, hiking trails, activities, and accommodations.
Trunk Bay beach in St. John, US Virgin Islands, showcasing its powdery white sand and vibrant turquoise water, framed by lush green vegetation.
Beaches: Discover a Bay for Every Day in St. John
Our family adheres to one unwavering rule during our St. John escapes: every day is dedicated to the beach. St. John boasts an abundance of breathtaking bays, more than you could possibly explore in a single visit. I always recommend beginning with the unspoiled beaches that grace the island’s North Shore.
Explore a Perfect Week in Paradise: St. John Itinerary
Trunk Bay, renowned for its crescent-shaped expanse of soft, white sand gently kissed by crystal-clear aquamarine waters, consistently ranks among the world’s top beaches. It is, without question, the most popular and most photographed beach in St. John. While mid-morning brings a gradual influx of visitors to St. John’s most celebrated sands, arriving early or in the late afternoon offers a more secluded experience. During the low season, particularly from late August to mid-November, solitude on these pristine sands is often guaranteed, regardless of the time of day.
Maho Bay in St. John, US Virgin Islands, with calm, shallow waters and lush seagrass, perfect habitat for sea turtles.
Maho Bay, characterized by its tranquil, shallow waters, is an ideal haven for families with young children. It’s also renowned as the prime location for spotting sea turtles in St. John. Lush seagrass beds just offshore provide a thriving habitat for green sea turtles. Swimming in the calm bay offers frequent encounters with these graceful creatures, but remember to maintain a respectful distance and never touch any marine life.
For a more secluded beach experience, venture a short distance to the serene Francis Bay. This tranquil stretch of golden sand marks the last beach along St. John’s North Shore. Its exceptionally clear, glass-like water is perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Here, we often encounter sea turtles, schools of juvenile fish, and stingrays. On occasion, we’ve been fortunate enough to spot octopus, starfish, and even a baby blacktip reef shark and squid close to the shore.
Gibney Beach in St. John, US Virgin Islands, a secluded beach with sugar-white sand, turquoise water, and lush green sea grape trees.
The exquisite Gibney Beach is a true St. John gem and our children’s undisputed favorite. This secluded, sugar-sand beach, framed by verdant sea grape trees and shimmering turquoise waters, is a living postcard. Parking at Gibney and Oppenheimer beaches is extremely limited, but securing a spot rewards you with a nearly private beach experience.
Heart-Pumping Hikes with Complimentary Cool-Downs in Virgin Islands National Park
Exploring the extensive network of over 20 trails winding through Virgin Islands National Park is an invigorating way to exercise while immersing yourself in the island’s rich history. An added bonus? Many of my preferred trails culminate with a refreshing dip at a nearby beach.
For a challenging yet rewarding hike, the 6-mile roundtrip Reef Bay Trail meanders through ancient forests, showcasing some of the island’s oldest and tallest trees. Take the marked spur trail to discover ancient petroglyphs, carved between 900-1500 AD by the pre-Columbian Taino people and their ancestors. Continue to the Reef Bay Sugar Mill ruins, which were active in brown sugar, rum, and molasses production until 1916. Afterward, cool off in the invigorating waves of remote Reef Bay on St. John’s south shore before the demanding uphill return hike.
Panoramic view of Maho and Francis Bays from America Hill in Virgin Islands National Park, St. John.
Wander through the remnants of the historic Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation before embarking on the short but steep ascent to the 19th-century America Hill Great House Ruins. The uphill path winds through a shaded forest canopy of towering mango, genip, and guava berry trees. At the summit, your efforts are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays stretching below. Following your hike, cool down at the breezy Cinnamon Bay, St. John’s longest beach.
Hike to Honeymoon Beach via the Lind Point Trail. Starting from the trailhead at the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay, this less than 2-mile round trip hike is manageable even for young children. Stunning Honeymoon Beach and its adjacent white-sand sibling, Salomon Beach, are accessible only by foot or boat, making them more secluded than other North Shore beaches, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive.
Honeymoon Beach in St. John, US Virgin Islands, with pristine white sand and calm turquoise water, accessible via a scenic trail.
Discover Relaxation by the Sea: Ambergris Caye, Belize
Venture to the more rustic side of St. John and begin your day with a hike to the summit of Ram Head, the southernmost point on the island. From peaceful Salt Pond Bay, follow the mile-long narrow trail along a rocky shoreline, encountering steep inclines and dramatic cliffs until you reach the 360-degree ocean vistas at the peak. Afterward, immerse yourself in the cool, clear waters of Salt Pond Bay, or explore windswept Drunk Bay, where you can create beach art from found rocks and driftwood.
Calichi at Picture Point in St. John, US Virgin Islands, an eco-friendly villa offering stunning panoramic views of the island.
Split Your Stay to Experience Both Sides of St. John
St. John’s unspoiled beauty distinguishes it from other Caribbean destinations marked by overdevelopment and towering hotels vying for beachfront. On St. John, accommodations range from luxurious boutique hotels and intimate inns to expansive vacation villas and charming Caribbean cottages. We prefer to divide our time between the two primary areas of the island: Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.
The breathtaking view from Out of the Blue villa in St. John, US Virgin Islands, overlooking Rendezvous Bay and the turquoise Caribbean Sea.
This recent trip marked our third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-conscious luxury villa retreat nestled 1,200 feet above sea level on Bordeaux Mountain, overlooking Coral Bay. From the magnificent Tower Villa, perched at the property’s highest point, sailboats gently sway in the sun-drenched harbor, offering panoramic views of the surrounding islands – St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, and Vieques to the west, Tortola and Jost Van Dyke to the north, and St. Croix to the south. Located just 10 minutes past Cruz Bay on the opposite side of the island, we also booked the spacious Out of the Blue vacation villa, gazing out over the jewel-toned waters of Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point on St. John’s South Shore.
Island Roots Boat Charters in St. John, US Virgin Islands, offering unforgettable day trips to explore the Virgin Islands.
Boating Adventures to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) from St. John
A significant advantage of a St. John vacation is its proximity to the neighboring British Virgin Islands, a short boat trip away. If your itinerary and budget allow, exploring this nautical paradise with island hopping to the BVIs should be a priority on your St. John bucket list. Private charters between the US Virgin Islands and the BVIs have resumed post-Covid, albeit at a higher price point.
We opted for a full-day extended BVI private charter with Island Roots Charters, a well-established, locally owned charter boat company specializing in customized itineraries to the Virgin Islands’ premier destinations. By 8 a.m., Captain Ryan greeted us at the National Park Dock in Cruz Bay, ready to whisk us away in a luxurious 32-foot World Cat power catamaran. After completing customs in Tortola’s West End, we paused to swim in the incredibly blue waters surrounding Sandy Spit, a tiny, uninhabited islet reminiscent of a scene from a pirate film. We continued along Tortola’s North Shore, anchoring at Rogues Bay, where we watched our children joyfully wave jump and rock climb on the secluded, completely deserted beach.
Sandy Spit, a tiny uninhabited island in the British Virgin Islands, known for its white sand and crystal-clear waters, a short boat trip from St. John.
By lunchtime, we arrived at our main destination and one of my most cherished places in the Caribbean: The Baths at Virgin Gorda. Here, colossal granite boulders rise dramatically from the teal sea, forming natural grottos and secluded saltwater pools perfect for exploration. Following lunch and rum punches at Devil’s Bay, we snorkeled The Indians, a small archipelago of islets teeming with vibrant underwater life. We concluded our day sipping Painkillers – a quintessential Caribbean cocktail blending dark rum, pineapple and orange juices, cream of coconut, and freshly grated nutmeg – as the sun dipped below the horizon at Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay. This blindingly white beach, lined with lush palms and thatched-roof beach bars, and fronted by Gatorade-blue water, provided a dreamy finale to a day at sea and the highlight of our month-long return to our beloved St. John, US Virgin Islands.
