Twenty years ago, the pristine beaches of Trunk Bay on St. John Island witnessed a personal milestone – my wedding. This small Caribbean gem, our home for the initial carefree years of marriage, has remained our sanctuary. This summer, we celebrated our anniversary with a month-long return, reaffirming its status as our happy place, a home away from home where we, along with our three children, seek respite, recharge, and embrace a slower, simpler, saltier rhythm of life.
Trunk Bay's global recognition as a top beach is well-deserved, showcasing its pristine beauty and allure for visitors to Saint John Island.
Approximately two-thirds of Saint John Island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park. This designation preserves the island’s unspoiled beauty, setting it apart from many Caribbean counterparts. Here, lush green hills meet powdery white beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters, untouched by over-development. Saint John Island remains delightfully free of all-inclusive resorts, highways, and even traffic lights within its 19 square miles, home to around 4,000 residents. Driving here is an experience in itself, with narrow, winding roads demanding left-side driving, frequent honking around hairpin bends, and pauses for the island’s diverse non-human inhabitants: donkeys, goats, mongooses, chickens, deer, and iguanas.
Donkeys freely roam Saint John Island, adding a touch of local charm and unexpected encounters, like these lounging on Honeymoon Beach.
Saint John Island, the smallest and most unspoiled of the U.S. Virgin Islands, offers an effortless escape from everyday stresses. Days begin with vibrant sunrises and the sounds of roosters, and conclude with breathtaking sunsets and gentle trade winds. In between, we immerse ourselves in nature’s saltwater haven.
Reaching Saint John Island from Austin is an adventure. The absence of an airport on St. John, coupled with no direct flights from Austin to neighboring St. Thomas, means a 16-hour journey. This involves multiple flights, a crowded taxi ride to the Red Hook ferry dock in St. Thomas, a brisk ferry to Cruz Bay on St. John, and a final Jeep ride to our destination. Yet, each arrival on this island paradise makes every travel hiccup fade away. Our children, seasoned St. John travelers despite their young ages (9, 13, and 16), now accept the journey with anticipation, knowing the reward is well worth the effort.
My personal connection with Saint John Island began during a college trip. Immediately captivated, I returned after graduation, trading an office job for a work-exchange program. Working as a housekeeper at an eco-resort, cleaning tents for accommodation, allowed me to spend my free time exploring the island’s stunning beaches. Six weeks turned into years as I found a role at the island’s newspaper, documenting island life and spending weekends enjoying beaches and boats.
Over two decades, my affection for Saint John Island has deepened, especially as it has become a cherished escape for my own family. For those considering a trip, this insider’s guide highlights the best beaches, hikes, activities, and accommodations Saint John Island has to offer.
Trunk Bay's globally recognized beauty stems from its pristine white sands and crystal-clear waters, making it Saint John Island's most iconic beach.
Beaches of Saint John: A Bay for Every Day
Our family rule on Saint John Island is simple: every day is beach day. With numerous stunning bays, you’ll find yourself wanting more days to experience them all. The north shore beaches of Saint John are particularly recommended for their unspoiled beauty.
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Trunk Bay, globally recognized for its crescent of soft white sand and clear aquamarine waters, is Saint John’s most famous and photographed beach. While it attracts visitors, arriving early or late in the day offers a more private experience. During the off-season (late August to mid-November), solitude is easily found at any time.
Maho Bay on Saint John Island is renowned for sea turtle sightings, offering calm waters and seagrass beds ideal for these gentle creatures.
Maho Bay’s calm, shallow waters make it perfect for families with young children and is also the prime location for spotting sea turtles. The seagrass beds just offshore are a haven for green sea turtles. While swimming, you’ll likely encounter many, remember to observe them respectfully and never touch any marine life.
For a quieter option, Francis Bay, a short drive from Maho, offers tranquility. This golden sand beach, the last on Saint John’s north shore, features clear, calm water ideal for swimming and snorkeling. We often see sea turtles, juvenile fish, and stingrays here, and have even spotted octopus, starfish, and even a baby black tip reef shark.
Gibney Beach on Saint John Island is a hidden gem, offering secluded beauty and tranquil turquoise waters, a favorite for those seeking serenity.
Gibney Beach, or Oppenheimer Beach, is a true Saint John gem and a family favorite. This secluded beach boasts soft white sand, lush sea grape trees, and stunning turquoise waters. Parking is limited, which helps maintain its peaceful atmosphere, making it feel like a private escape.
Hiking Trails on Saint John: Nature and Coastal Views
Exploring Saint John Island’s over 20 hiking trails within the Virgin Islands National Park is an excellent way to exercise while immersing yourself in the island’s history and natural beauty. Many trails reward hikers with a refreshing dip at a nearby beach.
The Reef Bay Trail, a 6-mile round trip, is a challenging hike through the island’s old-growth forests. A detour leads to ancient petroglyphs, carved between 900-1500 AD by the Taino people, and the ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Mill, operational until 1916. The reward is a swim in the waves of secluded Reef Bay before the uphill return hike.
America Hill on Saint John Island provides panoramic views of Maho and Francis Bays, rewarding hikers with breathtaking coastal scenery.
The Cinnamon Bay Trail passes the ruins of the Cinnamon Bay Sugar Plantation before a short, steep climb to the America Hill Great House ruins from the 19th century. The uphill path winds through mango, genip, and guava berry trees, culminating in spectacular views of Maho and Francis Bays. Cinnamon Bay, Saint John’s longest beach, offers a perfect cool-down afterward.
The Lind Point Trail leads to Honeymoon Beach, starting near the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay. This less than 2-mile round trip is suitable for families with young children. Honeymoon and Salomon beaches, accessible by foot or boat, are more secluded, especially in the early morning before charter boats arrive.
Honeymoon Beach, part of the Lind Point Trail on Saint John Island, offers tranquil sands and clear waters, accessible by hike or boat for a secluded beach experience.
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Venture to the quieter side of Saint John Island and hike to Ram Head, the southernmost point. Starting at Salt Pond Bay, the mile-long trail traverses rocky beaches and cliffs to reach 360-degree ocean views. Salt Pond Bay or the driftwood-strewn Drunk Bay offer refreshing swims after the hike.
Calichi at Picture Point on Saint John Island offers luxurious, eco-friendly accommodations with stunning panoramic views, enhancing the island retreat experience.
Accommodation on Saint John: Boutique to Villa Stays
Saint John Island’s unspoiled charm distinguishes it from other Caribbean destinations. Accommodation ranges from luxury boutique hotels and intimate inns to spacious villas and Caribbean cottages. We prefer splitting our stays between Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.
Out of the Blue villa on Saint John Island showcases breathtaking views of Rendezvous Bay, offering a luxurious and scenic island escape.
This recent trip marked our third stay at Calichi at Picture Point, an eco-luxury villa retreat on Bordeaux Mountain overlooking Coral Bay. The Tower Villa offers panoramic views of sailboats in the harbor and surrounding islands like St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, Vieques, Tortola, Jost Van Dyke, and St. Croix. On the other side of the island, near Cruz Bay, we stayed at the Out of the Blue villa, with views of Rendezvous Bay and Ditliff Point.
Island Roots Boat Charters on Saint John Island provides unforgettable sea adventures, exploring the stunning waters and nearby islands.
Boating Adventures to the British Virgin Islands from Saint John
A Saint John Island vacation offers easy access to the neighboring British Virgin Islands (BVI). Exploring this nautical paradise is a must if time and budget allow. Island hopping to the BVI is highly recommended.
We booked a full-day BVI charter with Island Roots Charters, a local company offering customized itineraries. Captain Ryan met us at Cruz Bay, ready to take us on a 32-foot World Cat power catamaran. After customs in Tortola, we swam at Sandy Spit, a tiny islet resembling a movie set. We then explored Tortola’s North Shore, stopping at Rogues Bay.
Sandy Spit near Saint John Island, a small uninhabited islet, offers idyllic Caribbean scenery and crystal-clear waters, perfect for a boat trip stop.
Lunch took us to The Baths at Virgin Gorda, a Caribbean highlight with massive granite boulders forming grottos and pools. After lunch and refreshments at Devil’s Bay, we snorkeled at The Indians, known for marine life. The day concluded with sunset cocktails at Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay, a stunning beach with white sand, palms, and turquoise waters. This BVI boat trip was a highlight of our month-long return to our beloved Saint John Island.
