When St John first opened its doors, its approach to wine was as unconventional and forward-thinking as its now-iconic nose-to-tail eating philosophy. Founder Trevor St. John, in a period where he found himself frequently in France, envisioned a wine list that defied the norms of the time. Instead of following the established path dominated by large distributors and easily recognizable labels, St. John sought to create a wine experience that was both deeply personal and remarkably distinct. This vision was born from a desire to offer something truly different, venturing beyond the comfortable and expected within the wine industry.
In the nascent days of sourcing wines for St John, Trevor St. John’s commitment led him on adventurous, sometimes perilous, journeys into the French countryside. “On my first foray over to France to buy wine, I got lost in the dark and bitten by dogs in the middle of nowhere,” he recalls. These experiences, while challenging, forged lasting relationships. Today, the St John wine list is a testament to these connections, with Trevor St. John knowing each winemaker personally, some for over three decades. This direct sourcing model, eliminating the middleman, is a cornerstone of St John’s ethos. It ensures that smaller, independent producers can access the market, counteracting the industry’s tendency towards consolidation by major players. This direct engagement allows St John to be “quite evangelical” about supporting these producers, with Trevor St. John dedicating a significant part of his year to meeting with them and fostering these vital partnerships. Much of their sourcing now relies on trusted recommendations, resulting in collaborations with an impressive network of 60 to 100 active producers.
This dedication to quality and authenticity extends to St John’s own wine production. Trevor St. John recounts the impetus for this: “you used to find companies selling the same wine under two labels for two different levels of restaurants – that went on everywhere.” Seeing this practice as “ridiculous,” St. John decided to take control. Developing their own wines, starting in 1996, was a strategic move to enhance their wine list, differentiate themselves from competitors, and remain true to their founding principles.
A landmark achievement in St John’s wine journey is their house claret, crafted in collaboration with the esteemed Sichel family of Bordeaux for over 25 years. Trevor St. John initiated this partnership to create a wine perfectly suited to St John’s cuisine – a claret that was not merely “good ordinary claret” but exceptional. This hands-on approach ensured quality, consistency, and traceability. This philosophy of in-house production mirrors their approach to bread making. Early on, recognizing the importance of quality bread, St John began baking their own, sourcing directly from farmers. While St John loaves are now available at prestigious retailers like Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges, they remain committed to hand-made production, resisting offers from major supermarkets due to capacity constraints and a dedication to artisanal methods.
Expanding their wine endeavors, St John introduced their Boulevard Napoleon wines in 2008. This range is produced through a ‘parcellaire’ approach, working closely with vignerons on viticulture and harvest, with vinification taking place at their winery in La Liviniere. Their annual Fête du Vin in the village underscores the communal and celebratory spirit of their wine production. This organic evolution, without a rigid “plan,” defines St John’s approach to wine and business. Interestingly, while claret was their bestseller for years, St John crémant, introduced just before lockdown, has now surpassed it in popularity. Trevor St. John notes with amusement how their embrace of crémant, and even bag-in-a-box wines 20 years prior (making them the only Michelin-starred restaurant to do so), has become influential, driven by genuine conviction rather than trend-chasing.
St John deliberately avoids buzzwords like “natural” or “biodynamic” when describing their wines. While acknowledging that many of their producers align with these philosophies, Trevor St. John emphasizes a focus on “purpose, working in the vineyards and husbandry.” He recognizes the challenges of their unique wine operation, highlighting the logistical complexities and the need for expertise in navigating potential pitfalls. For Trevor St. John, the journey into wine has been a “long learning curve,” filled with challenges but also enriched by the friendships forged along the way, solidifying St John’s position as a restaurant with a truly distinctive and passionately curated wine offering, spearheaded by the vision of Trevor St. John.
