New York City, over the past quarter-century, has undergone a remarkable transformation. Driven by visionary leadership and a strong economy, the city has experienced a surge in business and infrastructure improvements. This revitalization has significantly reduced the crime and grit that once tarnished NYC’s reputation as a desirable destination.
Perhaps nowhere is this change more evident than in Times Square. Once notorious for its adult entertainment establishments and illicit activities, this central Manhattan hub has been reborn as a thriving tourist magnet. However, for visitors seeking an authentic, top-tier New York-style pizza experience amidst the bright lights, options have been surprisingly limited. Beyond ubiquitous chain restaurants familiar from anywhere, and the somewhat underwhelming Ray’s Pizza, finding truly exceptional pizza in Times Square has remained a challenge – until now, maybe.
Recently, a business meeting in Midtown Manhattan brought me to lunch with a colleague visiting from the West Coast. Eager to treat me to a New York culinary experience, he suggested John’s Pizzeria of Times Square, the only pizza place he knew in the area. Established in 1997, John’s Pizzeria capitalized on the Times Square resurgence, cleverly repurposing an old, abandoned church into their restaurant space. While explicitly stating no affiliation with the renowned John’s of Bleecker Street, they have leveraged their prime location to expand their brand to Jersey City and the Bronx.
The exterior of John's Pizzeria of Times Square, showcasing its location and branding.
Enjoying a pleasant midday walk, we arrived at John’s on 44th Street, conveniently situated next to Sardis, a celebrated institution in the Theater District dining scene. Despite the late lunch hour, we were seated immediately, a welcome surprise. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the restaurant. A substantial bar area greets you upon entry, leading to three distinct dining sections, including a balcony that offers a view of their impressive coal-fired pizza oven. Later discovering their claim as the largest pizza restaurant in the United States, it was easily believable. However, seasoned in the world of pizza, I know that size and aesthetics are no guarantee of quality, and a nagging concern arose that we might be walking into an overpriced tourist trap serving mediocre food.
The spacious and ornate interior of John's Pizzeria of Times Square, highlighting its unique ambiance.
Perusing the menu, a clear message printed on our waitress’s t-shirt caught my attention: “No Slices.” This policy dictated that we had to order a whole pie. With diverging pizza preferences, I opted for a small plain cheese pizza, labeled a “Traditional” pie priced at $14.25 for six slices, while my companion chose a pie loaded with meat toppings. Similar to the original John’s of Bleecker Street, and in contrast to many Brooklyn pizzerias, they utilize their coal ovens to bake both regular and Margherita pizzas. This commitment to coal-fired cooking was a promising sign.
Our pizzas arrived surprisingly quickly. Visually, they presented an intriguing appearance, characterized by a blackened, coal-fired crust generously topped with an unconventional swirl of cheese and tomato sauce. I appreciated the thin, crispy look and the charred edges of the crust, although it was immediately apparent that my cheese pizza was excessively laden with cheese. Nevertheless, upon taking the first bite, any apprehension of a tourist-trap pizza quickly vanished. The coal-fired flavor was undeniably delicious and satisfying. This was not your typical Times Square fare.
The coal-fired pizza at John's Pizzeria of Times Square, showcasing its unique crust and toppings.
However, the heavy hand with the cheese did present some drawbacks. Its thickness led to some congealed, insufficiently melted pockets, while at the edges, the sheer weight of the cheese caused it to become runny and overwhelm the crust. Simply put, a more judicious cheese application would have resulted in better cooking. Furthermore, I was disappointed that the pizza wasn’t served hotter. It cooled down rapidly, and my final slice lacked the initial satisfying warmth.
A close-up of a plain cheese pizza from John's Pizzeria of Times Square, highlighting the crust and cheese.
Overall, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square is a noteworthy establishment serving a flavorful pizza crafted with quality ingredients. Any opportunity to savor pizza cooked over a coal fire is a distinct pleasure. Like John’s of Bleecker Street, their dedication to traditional coal-fired pizza making is commendable. Perhaps on my next visit, John’s of Times Square will consider a slightly lighter touch with the cheese and ensure the pizza arrives at the table piping hot, which would undoubtedly elevate the pizza experience even further!
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing
John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY 10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com
