John Besh, a name synonymous with New Orleans cuisine, is once again at the forefront of the city’s vibrant restaurant scene. Seven years after facing serious allegations of fostering a culture of sexual harassment within his restaurant group, Besh is opening a new establishment, Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar. This move, reported by the Times-Picayune/New Orleans Advocate, marks a significant moment in the chef’s career and raises questions about his role in the industry moving forward.
In 2017, an extensive eight-month investigation by the Times-Picayune unveiled claims from 25 current and former employees of Besh Restaurant Group (now BRG Hospitality) detailing a pervasive environment of sexual harassment. The allegations led to four official complaints filed with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC). John Besh himself was directly implicated, with one former employee alleging a coerced “long-term unwelcome sexual relationship” and a disturbing incident of non-consensual sexual contact. This complainant further stated she faced retaliation when she attempted to end the relationship.
The fallout was immediate and significant. John Besh stepped down as CEO of Besh Restaurant Group just days after the report’s release. He issued a public statement acknowledging a “consensual relationship” and expressing regret for his behavior, admitting it was “unacceptable.” However, despite relinquishing his CEO title, Besh remained a co-owner and partner in the company, continuing to benefit financially from BRG’s portfolio of 12 restaurants. This raises the central question: did John Besh, the celebrated chef, ever truly leave the restaurant world?
Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar, described as a Louisiana seafood-focused restaurant with a prominent oyster bar, is set to open near the Riverwalk Outlets mall on Spanish Plaza. This new venture prompts further examination of Besh’s current position. What exactly is John Besh’s role at Delacroix? Is this a genuine return to a more public-facing role, or something different?
According to BRG’s communications manager, Besh’s involvement at Delacroix mirrors his ongoing role within the BRG Restaurant group. He will primarily focus on working with the culinary teams behind the scenes, acting as a mentor and trainer for BRG’s chefs. Importantly, he will not be the executive chef at Delacroix. BRG has yet to decide whether to promote from within or hire externally for that top kitchen role.
Addressing the notion of a “comeback,” the BRG representative clarified that neither the company nor Chef Besh has publicly stated intentions for him to assume a more prominent public image. They emphasized that Besh is enthusiastic about the Delacroix project and simply responded to media inquiries. The message is clear: John Besh, the chef, is not seeking to reclaim the spotlight, but rather to contribute his culinary expertise behind the scenes, focusing on nurturing and inspiring the next generation of BRG chefs. This, they state, is where his passion currently lies.
Shannon White, who succeeded Besh as CEO after the allegations surfaced, remains in her position and oversees the daily operations of BRG Hospitality. Octavio Mantilla, the co-founder of the restaurant group with Besh in 2005, who also faced accusations in the 2017 report and EEOC complaints regarding the workplace culture, continues as a co-owner. Mantilla was recently appointed by Louisiana Governor Jeff Landry as a commissioner for the Ernest N. Morial New Orleans Convention Center. Mantilla told the Times-Picayune/New Orleans Advocate that Besh’s “main role” today is indeed to “teach and inspire.”
Over the past year, John Besh Chef has reportedly increased his involvement with BRG staff at Restaurant August, his flagship establishment in New Orleans, and Luke, his second restaurant. Besh himself stated, “This is what the company needs as new projects arise.” But what exactly is “this”? Is it the continued involvement of a chef whose reputation is indelibly marked by his own admission of “unacceptable” behavior?
Adding another layer of complexity to the Delacroix opening is the element of public funding. Earlier this year, the New Orleans City Council approved a measure enabling the operator of the Riverwalk Outlets mall, RockStep Capital, to raise up to $25 million for new venues at Spanish Plaza, including restaurants. This funding mechanism involves an additional 2 percent sales tax levied on customers of the Riverwalk shops. Therefore, public money is indirectly contributing to the investment in John Besh’s newest New Orleans restaurant venture.
The original exposé on Besh and BRG preceded similar revelations about prominent figures in the restaurant industry, including Ken Friedman and Mario Batali. While those chefs faced significant consequences, including lost business deals and diminished public standing, the industry has shown signs of a potential shift. Some observers note a degree of public willingness to patronize restaurants associated with accused individuals. Ken Friedman, for instance, worked behind the scenes on the LA hotspot Horses, and Mario Batali has hinted at a comeback.
Construction on Delacroix Fish Camp & Bar is underway, with an anticipated opening in early 2025. As John Besh returns to the kitchen, albeit in a purportedly behind-the-scenes role, the industry and the public will be watching closely. His new restaurant opens amidst ongoing conversations about accountability, redemption, and the lasting impact of the #MeToo movement within the culinary world.
